11 volts to crank sensor and no start
#11
Cleaned the connectors. No real visible crud, but hit them with some contact cleaner and let them air dry. No improvement.
Ran the OBD2 codes. Only one present: p0118. Temp sensor over volt.
But the engine is cold, obviously.
OBD2 is connecting to PCM.
Found the temp sensor was busted, so I pulled the stub out of the harness and ordered a new pigtail/sensor combo, since the pigtail looked pretty beat up.
Ran the OBD2 codes. Only one present: p0118. Temp sensor over volt.
But the engine is cold, obviously.
OBD2 is connecting to PCM.
Found the temp sensor was busted, so I pulled the stub out of the harness and ordered a new pigtail/sensor combo, since the pigtail looked pretty beat up.
Last edited by kraven; 04-24-2016 at 12:22 PM.
#12
#13
Sensor ohms reading question
Inquiring minds...etc. Which lead did you get that reading on, and was it plugged in? I'm assuming it was the sense lead to ground, but wondering if trying to read resistance with power applied is a valid test. Not criticizing, just never thought of doing it that way.
Did you chase down that voltage on the sensor? That is a common reference voltage to several sensors, I believe. Curious to know what happened.
Did you chase down that voltage on the sensor? That is a common reference voltage to several sensors, I believe. Curious to know what happened.
#14
#15
Inquiring minds...etc. Which lead did you get that reading on, and was it plugged in? I'm assuming it was the sense lead to ground, but wondering if trying to read resistance with power applied is a valid test. Not criticizing, just never thought of doing it that way.
Did you chase down that voltage on the sensor? That is a common reference voltage to several sensors, I believe. Curious to know what happened.
Did you chase down that voltage on the sensor? That is a common reference voltage to several sensors, I believe. Curious to know what happened.
It's still 11 volts to the crank sensor plug. I haven't traced it yet. Been doing other things on the truck.
Was this with them in or out of the circuit? They normally get power thru fuses and are triggered by ground from the PCM.
Relays were checked with a jumper wire while off the panel and in hand.
Fuel pump was checked with relay out and a jumper wire from key on b+ to green/black at the relay lug.
Fuel pump works when jumpered. Relays work when remotely jumpered.
#16
#18
Crank Sensor Testing
I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but the easiest test of the Hall Effect Sensor is to have 5v on pin 3 and ground on pin 2 and pass metal between the magnet and the pickup like you did with the resistance. The sensor lead (pin 1) should switch between 5 volts and zero.
#19
I got the no bus problem squared away. It was a(nother) bad ground. Now it's having a weird issue in the starting cycle where the starter won't go, but there's a loud click, the gauges go weak, and the fuel pump relay starts clicking like crazy.
Out of the frying pan. Into the fire. Thanks for the help, y'all.
Out of the frying pan. Into the fire. Thanks for the help, y'all.
#20
I got the no bus problem squared away. It was a(nother) bad ground. Now it's having a weird issue in the starting cycle where the starter won't go, but there's a loud click, the gauges go weak, and the fuel pump relay starts clicking like crazy.
Out of the frying pan. Into the fire. Thanks for the help, y'all.
Out of the frying pan. Into the fire. Thanks for the help, y'all.