Hi, I am new to this forum. I registered hoping someone could help me troubleshoot this problem. When I googled 46RE transmission problems the results were staggering. Ain't nobody got time fo dat!!

Here's what I got - 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.2L V8. Truck only has 117k on it. I bought it with a "bad transmission". You had to rev the engine up to get it to engage first gear and pull, same for reverse. Reverse is very weak though, just barely pulls. I have never worked on any 727 based slushboxes before, but I just assumed it had some burned up clutch packs in it. So I bought a rebuild kit and tore it down and sure enough discovered 2 burnt up packs. Put it all back together and it's still doing the exact same thing! It has a CEL with a P1763 code (governer pressure sensor). I am assumed the pressure sensor is good...and that there's just no pressure.

So I dropped the pan and took the valve body down and disassembled it. I did not disassemble it when I rebuilt the rotating assembly because I found burnt clutches and just assumed that was the problem. The truck also had a bent up rear bumper with a cobbled up trailer hitch on it so I just assumed they had abused it by pulling stuff that was far too heavy for it to handle. Anyway, I made some pretty interesting discoveries inside the valve body. The first discovery was a broken spring in the 3-4 accumulator that is attached to the valve body. The spring was broken into two pieces, allowing the accumulator piston to sit bottomed out at the bottom of the bore. The second discovery was a brad rivet inside the main regulator valve bore. I have no F'ing clue how that got in there. This was a one-owner truck before I bought it, the trans has never been into. There was a filter screen on an adjacent circuit that had a hole in it exactly the same size as the rivet head. I swear it almost looks like sabotage. I have never seen anything like this before, ever. I am wondering if anyone else has ever seen anything like this before - knows where that brad rivet originated from. I swear it's completely foreign to the transmission. I can't find anywhere where it may have come from.

Here's a pic of the broken spring:



Here's the accumulator where it goes:



Here's the brad rivet - just as I found it when I took the valve body apart:



And here's the strainer screen in the separator plate where I believe that rivet came from. Note the hole in it:

 

More info - I haven't put this back together yet since making the discoveries in the valve body. I had to order a new 3-4 accumulator spring and I am considering replacing all the solenoids and the pressure sensor also. One thing I did notice about the trouble code (1763) - whenever I would clear it, it would return immediately upon re-starting the engine. I have done some extensive research on this code and it appears there are some potentially frightening possibilities with this. The symptoms mine is showing point to a potential electrical/PCM issue. I am really hoping that is not the case. I bought this truck to flip - if this ends up being the case I am going to lose my *** on it. lol

 

Failed electronics are not uncommon for these transmissions. Since you just want to sell the truck, grab the electronics from your local parts store, and replace them. Bear in mind, they MUST be for the correct year trans, else you are going to get some truly strange behavior.

If you were considering keeping the truck, I would suggest the Sonax Sure-cure kit as well. But......

Welcome to DF!

 

I know - the solenoid replacement is a no-brainer, I just can't get past that brad rivet I found in the valve body. And the fact that the code comes back immediately is also worrisome. I don't want to drop another $150 on those parts only to find out the problem is caused by something stupid - like a shorted out o2 sensor.

And then there's the rivet in the valve body. I may never get over that. It will likely cause me to lose sleep for years to come.

 

Talk to your therapist about the rivet. I have absolutely no clue where that could have come from. Certainly not from the transmission though, as I don't think those are used anywhere...... Not sure if they are even used anywhere on the truck....... That HAD to be someone putting it in there on purpose..... Wouldn't be the first time I saw something strange in a vehicle straight from the factory..... Although, one would think that would have caused problems a LONG time ago...... Weird.

Changing the electronics in these transmissions during rebuild is more than just a good idea though, it's pretty much standard. The system is known to be problematic, hence, there are a fair few 'solutions' for it. (from better replacement parts, to converting to a gm style sensor/solenoid)

 

Sabotage-
Like someone dropped it down the fill/check tube?

Just a thought.

 

Not possible. There's no way it could get through the filter...and even if it did the next obstacle would be the pump...which would have cratered when this rivet entered it. The only way it could have gotten in there where I found it is if someone put it in there. My theory is that it was placed in that strainer during assembly, then it rattled around in there for 14 years before it finally broke through the screen and got into the regulator valve bore. I did do some checking and it did hinder the operation of that valve in the bore. It limited the travel of the valve, which would have certainly caused problems - e.g. too much line pressure or not enough, not sure which exactly.

 

That's something I've never heard of and that's exactly why I so love reading these forums! Your knowledge and experience with transmissions is helpful to many us not so knowledgeable DIYer's! WELCOME ABOARD!

I just installed a master kit in my 45RFE after 185k mi and losing 2-3 up-shift. Prior to that I had some similar problems with shifting due to the torque converter. That may be something to look at? I can't figure out how that spring broke...plus the rivet! Did you check out the valve body contacts with a volt meter?

 

I'm not done messing with it yet. I have a few theories about how this transmission failed. I also suspect my DTC code issue is a separate issue I think. I reckon I'll get to that part after I get it put back together and find out whether or not I have fixed the mechanical issue.

I suspect when that rivet got into that pressure regulating valve that it caused a high line pressure situation - which probably resulted in the damage to the 3-4 accumulator and spring. Once that was tore up it resulted in the forward clutch and overdrive clutch packs getting burned up. (The forward clutch also has to engage in order for reverse to work). I am hoping that once I get the valve body put back on with a new spring in the accumulator and the brad rivet removed from the pressure regulator that it will work normally when I put it in gear. I am NOT confident however that it is going to solve the trouble code issue. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

Either way that's something you just don't find every day! Very cool that you can diagnose and troubleshoot! I agree that there's something going on with the clutches, fwd and rev...you have a lot more knowledge about the system than I do so please keep us posted on your progress. I'm curious to learn if the pressure problem was a result of the valve body sabotage or electrical? 🙄 I've heard that the inventors of automatic transmissions ended up with psychiatric issues so I think your frustration is validating. Lol
thanks for the post!