40 amp fuse in PDC
I believe the one you'd want is XQJ37.
I wonder how long it'll be before someone gets the reference without the internet's help.
I wonder how long it'll be before someone gets the reference without the internet's help.
HEY! Guess what? The 40 amp FUSE 2 in the PDC feeds, eventually, the PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH. In short, leaving out all the umpteen connections, it first goes to the FUSE BLOCK FUSE 15, (among others) then feeds to the DAY/NIGHT MIRROR. DRL, and the PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH to the BACKUP LIGHTS.
There are other circuits that feed from this fuse, but this is the connection to the park/neutral switch.
Wonder what's in that F15 slot in the fuse block.
BACK-UP LAMPS
In the RUN position, the ignition switch connects circuit A2 from fuse 2 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) to circuit A22. Circuit A22 feeds a bus bar in the fuse block that powers circuit L10 through fuse 15. Circuit L10 supplies power to the back-up lamp switch. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, the back-up lamp switch is part of an assembly that includes the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch. When the operator puts the transmission in REVERSE, the back-up lamp switch connects circuit L10 to circuit L I . Circuit L I feeds the back-up lamps.
There are other circuits that feed from this fuse, but this is the connection to the park/neutral switch.
Wonder what's in that F15 slot in the fuse block.
BACK-UP LAMPS
In the RUN position, the ignition switch connects circuit A2 from fuse 2 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) to circuit A22. Circuit A22 feeds a bus bar in the fuse block that powers circuit L10 through fuse 15. Circuit L10 supplies power to the back-up lamp switch. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, the back-up lamp switch is part of an assembly that includes the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch. When the operator puts the transmission in REVERSE, the back-up lamp switch connects circuit L10 to circuit L I . Circuit L I feeds the back-up lamps.
Last edited by Friar Tuck; Jun 16, 2016 at 01:29 AM.
Inquiring minds.....When you jump from the battery to the starter solenoid, you are providing unlimited current to the solenoid, limited by whatever the battery and jumper cable can stand. Kinda like a SMOKE TEST! Just because it starts is no guarantee that the starter and solenoid are ok. Like was suggested, pull the starter relay and turn the key to start. It will not start, we're just trying to find out if the rest of the load on that fuse is enough to blow it. If the 40 amp fuse doesn't blow, you've likely found the culprit. If push comes to shove, a parts store can test the starter for you.
Inquiring minds.....When you jump from the battery to the starter solenoid, you are providing unlimited current to the solenoid, limited by whatever the battery and jumper cable can stand. Kinda like a SMOKE TEST! Just because it starts is no guarantee that the starter and solenoid are ok. Like was suggested, pull the starter relay and turn the key to start. It will not start, we're just trying to find out if the rest of the load on that fuse is enough to blow it. If the 40 amp fuse doesn't blow, you've likely found the culprit. If push comes to shove, a parts store can test the starter for you.
In the PDC. There should be a legend on the cover. (inside) If you don't have the cover, it's also in the service manual. (did someone point you at the download?)
The ignition switch IS low current. It just provides ground path for the relay control circuit. Then the relay engergizes the solenoid. You are bypassing that entire section of the circuit by jumping it at the starter.
So, replace the fuse, pull the starter relay, turn the key to start. (it won't), does it still blow the fuse?
The ignition switch IS low current. It just provides ground path for the relay control circuit. Then the relay engergizes the solenoid. You are bypassing that entire section of the circuit by jumping it at the starter.
So, replace the fuse, pull the starter relay, turn the key to start. (it won't), does it still blow the fuse?
I followed your instruction, replaced fuse, pulled relay, turned key to start. NO BLOWN FUSE!!!!!
replaced relay, started using keyswitch,a few times, still NO BLOWN FUSE!!!!
BUT, I have an extra 40 amp fuse and my trusty "starter kit" ( a small angled prybar that is just right for jumping the solenoid, from up top by reaching over the fender and under the master cylinder and steering shaft.
Mysterious electrical problems baffle me big time. specially when they are inconsistent!!
But thank you very much everyone who posted







