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Spongy brakes

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  #11  
Old 07-19-2016, 06:27 PM
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You can upgrade to 2500 calipers (with 1500 pads) in front and 2500 cylinders (with 1500 shoes) in rear.
 
  #12  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:02 PM
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that may be an upgrade after my other fixes (slowly knocking down the list)

so do you think my symptoms are just typical of these trucks?

oh yeah, it's a '99 2500 4x4. I believe its just rear wheel anti-lock.

thanks for the upgrade info.
 
  #13  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:28 PM
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Sounds like it...
 
  #14  
Old 07-19-2016, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by racefan41
I've heard these trucks have a weak brake system to begin with. Is that true?
A lot of folks believe so but that hasn't been my experience. I'm on all stock/stock replacement parts and the brakes are good. Not great, but good. I can't lock the Michelins that are on it now, but could get the original Goodyears and replacement Falkens (which sucked for 24,000 miles and then were junk) to make noise if I stood on the pedal at any good clip.

Originally Posted by racefan41
My pedal goes just a little under 2/3 of the way down and the rears don't feel (or look) like they do much stopping.
Your hydraulics are not working properly at all.
 
  #15  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:49 PM
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If the bleed nipple is broken, you can bleed by cracking the nut where the brake line attaches.
 
  #16  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dodgevity
If the bleed nipple is broken, you can bleed by cracking the nut where the brake line attaches.
That will still leave an air pocket....... Best to just replace the wheel cylinder. Or, if you can get what's left of the bleeder out, stick in a new one.
 
  #17  
Old 07-19-2016, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
A lot of folks believe so but that hasn't been my experience. I'm on all stock/stock replacement parts and the brakes are good. Not great, but good. I can't lock the Michelins that are on it now, but could get the original Goodyears and replacement Falkens (which sucked for 24,000 miles and then were junk) to make noise if I stood on the pedal at any good clip.



Your hydraulics are not working properly at all.
sorry, my description wasn't the best there at first. normal braking is about half pedal but an aggressive break is about 2/3 of the way down. and that's not hauling a load. It hasn't got me in any iffy situations yet, but I'm gonna bleed it and see if it helps.
 
  #18  
Old 07-19-2016, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
If the prop valve was out of place, the lite would be on. (it DOES test, right?)

You have air in the system. It really is that easy. Need to get it out. Having a friend to help with the bleed process makes life a lot easier.
No light on.

Gonna swap out the cylinder w broken bleeder and try again-thanks as always all👍
 
  #19  
Old 07-29-2016, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sniper dave
No light on.

Gonna swap out the cylinder w broken bleeder and try again-thanks as always all👍
To close out-

Determined that one rear adjuster was seized, the other was all the way out. This caused rear cylinders to push all the way out and essentially take away fluid and pressure from fronts-causing spongy brakes

Thanks to all for helping 👍
 



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