What type of lube to put into Trany
'94 Ram, 1500, NV-3500 Manual Transmission,
My shop manual calls for Mopar Manual Transmission Lube, Is this necessary?? Can I use 80-90 gear oil, the same I put in my diffs.
Thx
My shop manual calls for Mopar Manual Transmission Lube, Is this necessary?? Can I use 80-90 gear oil, the same I put in my diffs.
Thx
i'm a fan of synthetics period. manual tranny, auto tranny, rear ends & transfer cases... it's the only way to go. the AT might be hella expensive the 1st time you flush it but after that, it shouldnt be to bad.
steve00
I am getting ready to drop my pan and change fluid and filter. Have given some thought to going synthetic, how would a fella accomplish a complete flush, including torque converter, at home in the garage? And also, what is the synthetic equivelant of
Mopar ATF+4?
I am getting ready to drop my pan and change fluid and filter. Have given some thought to going synthetic, how would a fella accomplish a complete flush, including torque converter, at home in the garage? And also, what is the synthetic equivelant of
Mopar ATF+4?
ORIGINAL: REDKNOB
steve00
I am getting ready to drop my pan and change fluid and filter. Have given some thought to going synthetic, how would a fella accomplish a complete flush, including torque converter, at home in the garage? And also, what is the synthetic equivelant of
Mopar ATF+4?
steve00
I am getting ready to drop my pan and change fluid and filter. Have given some thought to going synthetic, how would a fella accomplish a complete flush, including torque converter, at home in the garage? And also, what is the synthetic equivelant of
Mopar ATF+4?
for a complete flush you'd need to tap into the cooler lines at the front of the motor. have 2 buckets ready, one with the new atf and one for the old atf, put the tranny lines into each bucket, make sure the feed bucket stays full enough for the TC to be able to draw in fluid w/o drawing in air, i'd put at least 1 extra quart in the draw bucket just to make sure you have enough. once the new bucket is empty and the old bucket is spewing out clean fluid, your done. re-attach the lines and then top off the tranny. I would also make sure you have the cooler in line with the flush, dont want any leftovers now do we... :-). how you change the fliter in all that is up to you.
you will need to do this with the tranny in neutral, the pump doesnt work in park.
I have NOT perfomed this flush myself, one of my motor head friends has and this is how he did it so you may want to confirm this with a tranny shop.
Just came from the local Dodge dealer, decided to stay with the ATF-4(only place you can get it), and they told me exactly the same procedure as you describe. Whole system flush takes 12 qts so anyone else out there doing this--make sure you get enough. My dealer
pumped it out of their bulk barrel for me, almost a dollar a qt cheaper than buying it pre-packaged. He also informed me (as steve00 posted) that the pump does not work in park, so for all you guys that let your truck idle for any length of time--you are creating lots of heat with absolutely no flow--BAD for our tranny's!! Set the E-brake and put it neutral if you must idle.
pumped it out of their bulk barrel for me, almost a dollar a qt cheaper than buying it pre-packaged. He also informed me (as steve00 posted) that the pump does not work in park, so for all you guys that let your truck idle for any length of time--you are creating lots of heat with absolutely no flow--BAD for our tranny's!! Set the E-brake and put it neutral if you must idle.
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Do NOT go the cheap route on fluid. My recently purchased '98 3500 was filled with the wrong fluid by the owneer before me. 3 weeks later, I had to spend $3000 to rebuild the ENTIRE tranny after the bearings fried and siezed. BTW, I run Amsoil in everything I have. Expensive, but not $3000 worth.







