5.9L No Compression In Cylinder #8
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From: Clayton MI
Well i dont think half of the oil needs to be drained out a quart will do if your worried about overfilling. Marvel mystery oil may be another option. My 2 cents, one of those may work, it just depends if you have time and the supplies. Definitely cannot hurt (to my knowledge) to try, if something if broken than these methods wont change anything except your parts will be cleaner
Could pull the valve cover for a quick inspection...... Would tell you if it was something broken or not at least. Given that you actually get some compression though, I wouldn't hold my breath on it being that easy.... Probably a burnt valve, or cracked valve seat. In which case, don't fix it, replace the heads. Yes, both of them. You can get a pair of BETTER heads for around 600 bucks. Then there is the labor to install them.... which you would be paying anyway.
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Thanks. If it cant hurt I guess I have nothing to lose except for the 10 bucks a bottle of Seafoam costs these days. I'll put half a bottle in the crank and drive it for a couple hundred miles before getting changing the oil and see what happens. I may still have to bring it in to have a broken valve spring replaced but at least my engine will be a bit cleaner.
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I agree with him.
Could pull the valve cover for a quick inspection...... Would tell you if it was something broken or not at least. Given that you actually get some compression though, I wouldn't hold my breath on it being that easy.... Probably a burnt valve, or cracked valve seat. In which case, don't fix it, replace the heads. Yes, both of them. You can get a pair of BETTER heads for around 600 bucks. Then there is the labor to install them.... which you would be paying anyway.
Could pull the valve cover for a quick inspection...... Would tell you if it was something broken or not at least. Given that you actually get some compression though, I wouldn't hold my breath on it being that easy.... Probably a burnt valve, or cracked valve seat. In which case, don't fix it, replace the heads. Yes, both of them. You can get a pair of BETTER heads for around 600 bucks. Then there is the labor to install them.... which you would be paying anyway.
Now that we're on the subject, if it does get to the point where I need to either have my heads reworked or replaced, what would you consider "better heads" for that engine? If I end up needing the labor done anyway, I'm all for a performance increase, as long as it doesn't increase compression to a point that could cause problems with the lower end.
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From: Clayton MI
The stock heads are poor castings, and if they need to come off, spending ANY money on them is pretty much a waste. The decks are rather thin, and resurfacing them will only make that worse. They are VERY prone to cracking around the valve seats.....
There are heads available on EBay, from Odessa/Clearwater cylinder head, (same company.... just two names, no clue why) that are BRAND NEW, thicker castings. They are direct bolt-ons, and solve a fair few problems with the stockers. Another option would be the EQ heads.... which of course, are more expensive, but, flow better. I *think* clearwater sells those as well, but, are more fun to find. (they are also NEW, thicker castings, do NOT buy reman heads... waste of money.)
I suspect that going either way on those would be an improvement.
There are heads available on EBay, from Odessa/Clearwater cylinder head, (same company.... just two names, no clue why) that are BRAND NEW, thicker castings. They are direct bolt-ons, and solve a fair few problems with the stockers. Another option would be the EQ heads.... which of course, are more expensive, but, flow better. I *think* clearwater sells those as well, but, are more fun to find. (they are also NEW, thicker castings, do NOT buy reman heads... waste of money.)
I suspect that going either way on those would be an improvement.