Getting the carrier out is a snap. Take and old TEE SHIRT OR sock. Ball it up and wedge it between the ring and pinion. Grab a wrachet and socket and turn the ring gear the direction that jams the sock up and it will pop out. I have done this in my truck with NO problem whatsoever. Hope this helps

 

If you do this, I personally would replace both seals, any parts related to the CAD and the axle shaft u-joints. I would put ball joints in also if you have the money. There's a chance you'll need wheel bearings also. You would be in great shape for a lot of years after this though.

 

Ah, scope creep. Gotta love it.

 

Absolutely replace both seals while you are in there - otherwise, you will be back in there very soon.

 

Nice tip. Do you have any tips for putting the carrier back in? Sometimes they can be very tight to put back in without a case spreader.

 

Thanks, Besides the fact that it is heavy as hell, I set it up and wiggle it a bit till it seats in a bit. Put the caps back on and tighten it evenly with the bolts. A rubber mallet helps a bit too. Ive done this this this way on my back laying on the garage floor. No problems. Just remember on the way out you want to ball up the tee shirt or sock so it cant pass through. Also, even though im sure dodge uses one I was always told to avoid the case spreader if I can.

 

Yes, one must be very careful with the case spreader as it can be easy to overspread the case, however, when using it correctly, it makes the carrier install/removal process real easy. Also, good case spreaders aren't lightweight either!

 

I paid them to do the whole job. Axles are about the only thing I don't do, mainly because of what you've read thus far. The first experience was bad as within two years the seals leaked and ujoints were shot. That began my self-education of parts, mechanics, and repairs on my truck. I purchased the parts myself (OEM) the second time and went shop to shop asking if they would put them in. The shop that knew what parts were OEM and said yes, got my business. Used him for several years until he screwed me out of my clutch. That set of seals are still in there. The ujoints have been done again as they only last about 5 years.

 

I feel ya. My horror story goes like this. Mine were leaking so I decided to do them both. Took it all apart the drivers side seal is a snap once you take out the diff but the pass seal is a *&^%ing nightmare. Tried pressing it in and tried turnng it in with a threaded rod. It kept getting screwed up. Finally I used like 4 or 5 extensions and went in through the drivers side axle tube with a socket set against the seal and tapped it in no problem. Replaced all the U-joints and was good. Fast forward to the winter started slipping so tossed it in 4wd all was good put it back in 2WD headed an hour from home and snap. Pass Ujoint busted. This wiped out the new seal I put in also cause I had to drive a bit with it broken. Got it back home and decided that will never happen again. My axle got ripped out stripped and powercoated Black. New bearings Diff and pinion, Bought Yukon axles and a CAD delete Pass axle, yukon Lock out hubs and CTM u-joints. Also threw in a set of Dyna Trac rebuildable upper ball joints and Moog Lowers. I think Im good as far as fron ends go. With Lock outs nothing is moving anymore and CTM ujoints are for rock crawlers lol. I got a new set on ebay for 250. They are 500 for a set. Talk about over doing it. I love my 2nd gen

 

No kill like over kill. I think you spent more on your front axle, than I did buying my truck.