I watched a YouTube video on pulling the transfer case and they said that you need to remove the transmission crossmember. Getting this out and back in seemed like the biggest pita of the whole job. However, I then read Sheriff420's DIY and I don't see anything about pulling this crossmember. You can read his DIY here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...placement.html


For those of you that have pulled it, it it necessary to remove that crossmember or can you get to everything without doing so? I've got a small leak and I'm thinking I minus well fix it while I'm under my truck fixing everything else. This is the time of the year that I use my truck the least, so I'd rather have it down for a few weeks now than having to do it in the winter when I need it.

 

You don't need to pull the cross member out. You do need to pull the skid plate and rear support. 2 bolts at the front of the skid plate, then a bolt on each side on the support at the frame and it will come out easy.

There are 6 nuts holding the transfer case in (studs on the transfer case). The top one is the hardest to get to. Everything else is pretty self-explanatory. If you can, drain the oil from the transfer case before dropping it, or you might get an oil bath.

 

Is the support you're saying you need to remove the one that the videos are beating out with a hammer that looks like a crossmember? I'm just thinking that's going to be a pita. Or is there another support? I need to get under there to look at it, but I haven't been able to yet.

 

I just snapped the pic. You can see the skid plate. The big heavy cross piece to the left (front) is the trans cross member. It is probably what they were beating out in the video. It doesn't need to come out. The 2 bolts holding the skid plate on do. You can also see the piece of channel that is bolted to about the middle of the skid plate, and bolts to the bottom of the frame. The 2 bolts holding that channel to frame come out. The channel can stay bolted to the skid plate. Hope the pic helps.

 

If you do ever remove the cross member, do not pound it down. It is tapered and was dropped in from above the frame rails when built so it doesn't come out from below. Rather, pound it rearward towards the back axle. When installing, line it up behind its position and pound towards the front axle. Don't ask how I know this . . .

If the mentioned video shows this, then great. Just wish it was around last year when I did mine.

 

Thanks for the pictures and advice. That makes me feel a lot better. I'm really hoping that I can get it out without removing the crossmember. I'm going to attempt to tackle it later on this week.

For the seals am I better off going with OEM Mopar parts or aftermarket parts? Which seals do I need? I'm assuming the transfer case output shaft seal, the transmission output shaft seal, and is there an input shaft seal for the transfer case?

 

You should be able to get the seals at any parts store. There's no advantage to OEM seals here unless you really want them.
You should have the trans output seal, t-case input seal, and t-case rear output seal. Only reason to mess with the t-case front output seal is if it's leaking or if you take the shaft out to replace bearings.

 

Great input from these guys clarifying the cross member fun. Not all trucks came with the skid plate, only ORE.

Stick with OEM, but you can find a DOUBLE lip seal for the tranny side. I definitely would replace with that. I don't have the P/N handy, but my Napa person actually went through the comparable stash to find one.

 

Nope! I have a skid plate. It came on Tow Packages.

 

Ramman is right... I think. I've never seen a 4x4 ram without one unless a previous owner left it off, or left it in the rocks.