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Quick spark plug question

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  #11  
Old 10-13-2017, 02:13 PM
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I'm going to head over to oreilly and get some bolt extractors, the spark plug socket on the spark plug itself has become sorta stripped(the whole porcelin tip ended up breaking off lol, was already pretty loose) and worn after trying for 8 hours, I woke up feeling like I got ran over by a freight train, I'm sure it's most likely rusted in there or the people before put it on wayyyyyyyy too tight years ago, it was autolite 3924s that I've gotten out so far, looked very dirty and rusty and worn down, you'd never have known with how decent it drove and idled though

Going to soak it with some pb blaster and wait a few hours, my dad is coming over later, I don't think I have much strength left today.....lol

That heat shield thingy for #7 is all bent up now, I figured they weren't super important, my old 92 firebird with the 305 v8 didn't even have heat shields at all like the ram truck does

I watched a youtube vid of a 2000 5.9 durango and a guy said he had the same thing happen, the vid even had #7 snap too, and said using the bolt extractor and a hammer finally got it out.....I'll try with the hammer, don't think I have any strength left to tug much today after 8+ hours last night....lol
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-2017, 02:15 PM
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Be very careful with bolt extractors..... They are super hard, but, that makes them brittle as well. Personally, I hate the damn things, as I usually end up snapping them off, and then have to find a way to remove them....... No fun at all.
 
  #13  
Old 10-13-2017, 05:13 PM
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I'm sure you know this, but make sure to put anti-seize on the new plugs. It will make it much easier to remove them next time you replace them.
 
  #14  
Old 10-13-2017, 08:05 PM
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dad came over for a bit and even we couldn't get it off, it's stripped, I saw Lowes has the exact same bolt extractor set for 19 something instead of 30 at autozone, he also mentioned tomorrow going around to some mechanics to borrow a tool that could get it out.

It could still drive at the moment, but it was shaking bad before misfiring going up a hill so I kinda don't wanna drive it around until it's fixed, soaked it some more with pb blaster but sadly I don't think it has helped any

some people swear by these bolt extractors, I'm iffy on it personally but I figured for 19 tomorrow for the socket set with those aggressive teeth to grab into the stripped spark plug it's worth a shot I suppose

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...set/486979_0_0

it's extremely cramped in that spot due to the brake booster in the way...these plugs seriously have to be 20+ years old I'm guessing by their condition
 
  #15  
Old 10-14-2017, 12:06 AM
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I'm running Autolite platinum plugs in my 5.9 with no issues whatsoever. I did remove my heat shields from the factory magnum heads. I installed them when I did the engine swap a while ago and also installed a new distributor, distributor cap and rotor (with brass inserts), double roller timing chain/gear set, Taylor wires and JBA coated shorty headers. The plugs are still in the motor after several years.
 
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:00 AM
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You guys remind me of why putting hi-temp anti-seize on plug threads, is a good thing. Some people will argue you down and tell you it's not necessary or recommended, but it makes things so much easier when it comes time to pull them.
 
  #17  
Old 10-14-2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
Be thankful you don't have a Ford 5.4 3valve!!!!! If you don't know, they have quite the rep for spark plug issues. Type it into youtube sometime when you're bored.
Try a 6.8L V-10 2 valve in an E-350. Plug change takes 8 hours to do it right and you have to pull both front seats to get enough room to work.
 
  #18  
Old 10-14-2017, 08:54 PM
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finally got it out today, not sure if it was copper or platinum since it broke, but all the others were autolite 3924 double platinums. With the new brass dist cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires it seemed to start easier and had a bit better acceleration and power, that irwin 5/8 actually didn't work, thankfully it was only like 21 with tax at lowes vs 30+ at autozone, my dad had some offbrand socket extractor set he also bought I'll have to find the name of, but that actually eventually got it out. The old cap was the el cheapo aluminum and was pretty corroded on the inside, even the old rotor had corroded....I'm amazed how well it drove for the ~5 months I've had it with the very old worn out parts.


I found out the KN CAI big black plastic tube thingy has a bit of a broken crack opening at the back where it sits on top of the throttle body, the filter def needs cleaning which I'll do tomorrow. If I could just get a stock airbox real cheap I honestly wouldn't mind going back to it, seems like it'd be easier and just get like a cheap spectre filter to throw in it.

The truck seemed to run and drive ok on the real worn out double platinum autolites, those things seriously had to be like 20+ years old, I'll post a pic of #7, don't think it had ever been changed, there was nothing left of it. The PB blaster had soaked down pretty good into it though, probably helped some soaking it.

I actually didn't even follow the TSB about the wire routing on these trucks, was too tired to care at this point (LOL), no misfire and idles even smoother now.

The wire set had a weird extra long black boot wire, I'm guessing an alternative for the coil.........and the old set seemed to have an extra tossed in there....very weird. They're all 8 hooked up plus the 1 long one to the coil though lol. I wondered if it would be good to get a coil, or I'll at least get a spare to put in the glovebox cheap off rockauto I suppose. My dad said in all the years he's owned his 98 ram though he never had to get another coil.

pic: and why yes I had a rainbow umbrella to help ease this very intense tx sun and humidity lol Gotta love neglectful previous owners.....

edit: also, good news, I just happened to look down and check the plenum and saw no oil pools, so that's a big plus....maybe this old thing will last me many more years yet lol :P

edit 2:After looking around google, Gorilla Duck Tape seems to be a pretty good option for sealing up that air box crack on the K&N CAI, I have some black rtv laying around too but I'd imagine that might not hold and get sucked down into the throttle body...Maybe JB weld, but, the crack is a bit big, I can post a pic next time I get a chance to. I see some ebay ~50-60$ el cheapo offbrand cold air intakes....they any good? I see ALOT of KN/Spectre offbrand washable filters too on ebay, I'm not even sure if they filter well or what though. Found one old used stock airbox for 75ish but it didn't even include the gasket or metal clamp ring that holds it to the throttle body......I'll take some carb cleaner to the throttle body some time too, it's not horribly gunked up but has a bit of carbon on the plate.
 

Last edited by WhiteSnake91; 10-15-2017 at 02:28 AM.
  #19  
Old 10-15-2017, 07:42 PM
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Just wrap the existing tube in Duct tape, and you will be good.
 




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