Need to lift rear of cab to replace cross member
#1
Need to lift rear of cab to replace cross member
I've got a partially rusted out cross member on the frame of my truck that I'm planning to replace. This cross member is used to hold the front fuel tank strap and an exhaust pipe hanger and is located directly under the rear of the standard cab on my truck. The cross member is held in place by 4 rivets (2 on each side). I found a perfect donor cross member off a 2001 Ram 2500 truck and my truck is a 1996. I did notice that the 2001 cross member is held in place by 3 rivets per side. The 8 foot bed is already off my truck, as I'm going over the frame with zero rust. I suspect that I can cut off the heads of the rivets from the bottom side of the frame and drive them up and out with my air hammer and a punch. I'm also thinking that I will need to raise the rear of the cab a bit (1 - 2 inches) to be able to install the new cross member and run 4 bolts though it from the top. My plan is to remove the 4 cab mounting bolts and raise the rear of the cab just a bit using my floor jack and some 4x4 wood to gain the needed access room.
Does this plan sound workable and if so, is there anything else I need to be concerned with in raising the rear of the cab slightly (other items that may need to be loosened or removed)?
Does this plan sound workable and if so, is there anything else I need to be concerned with in raising the rear of the cab slightly (other items that may need to be loosened or removed)?
#2
Just make sure the cab doesn't make contact, and damage, anything it shouldn't. (like the distributor...... or oil pressure sensor......) There might be a wiring harness or two you will have to pay attention to as well, but, not sure on that.
How is the hole placement? Are you going to have to drill two more? Or is there just an extra hole in the newer crossmember?
How is the hole placement? Are you going to have to drill two more? Or is there just an extra hole in the newer crossmember?
#3
Thanks for those tips. I'll keep them in mind when I perform the swap.
As for the new cross member, it has provisions for 3 rivets on each side, whereas the old one only has two rivets per side. At first glance, it appears that the two outer holes on each side of the new cross member should line up with the existing rivet holes in the frame. I'll take a measurement to be sure. I may drill for the third hole on each side (which would be in the center on each side), but I'm thinking that 2 grade 8 nuts, bolts and locktite on each side should be adequate to hold the new cross member in place on the frame.
As for the new cross member, it has provisions for 3 rivets on each side, whereas the old one only has two rivets per side. At first glance, it appears that the two outer holes on each side of the new cross member should line up with the existing rivet holes in the frame. I'll take a measurement to be sure. I may drill for the third hole on each side (which would be in the center on each side), but I'm thinking that 2 grade 8 nuts, bolts and locktite on each side should be adequate to hold the new cross member in place on the frame.
#5
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