Attempted speaker wire-up
For starters I am a complete sound system noob, this is my first attempt to do anything like this. So I have a '96 2500, and I have just bought some aftermarket Kenwood speakers. Took the door panels off and was greeted with this crescent piece with two wires connected to the speaker and then 4 coming out of the other side. The two that were connected to the speaker were a light blue and white, so I assumed that the white one was the negative. Took off the old speaker, somehow mounted the crescent piece to the new speaker with zip ties and wired it up, white to negative and blue to positive. Turn the key on to find that it isn't working. Then I find out this whole time that my tweeters are the only things putting out any type of sound, with nothing coming out of either my new speaker or my old one. Anyone know why the tweeters are the only things putting out sound, and not the speakers? I even switched the wires in case I had accidentally wired them backwards, and still nothing.
I suspect your truck has the stock infinity sound system? That 'crescent-shaped piece' is actually an amplifier..... and needs to be powered for you to get anything from the speaker. Still have the stock head unit in the truck?
Its really interesting only your tweeters work and not the in-doors. All the rams I've come across and mine personally have the opposite issue, with non-functioning tweeters! If I remember from when I completely redid the stereo and wiring in my truck, I believe the wiring colors in the doors isnt the same as at the headunit harness. In any case, you can see what the wiring harness at the head unit has for the Left/Right Front (+) and (-) and see if its traceable back. If you're planning to reuse the factory amps, there will be some wire in the factory harness that should be hooked up to the headunits amp power out/on. And I think I remember seeing that the +/- color were the exact same on both sides of the door, so no luck for distinguishing left right. If you haven't already, do a google search on your make/model and you shouldn't have any issues finding the wiring diagram for radios, including for infinity system. If I knew a little more, I could do a little digging :P Though it is currently very early AM for me (midnight!)
Also, from an audio stand point it doesn't really matter if + and - are even wired the proper way, as the only difference is related to if its a push or pull from the magnet to produce the soundwave, which is why if you didn't match all speakers everywhere, you could take a tone and play it, one speaker would begin the wave with a push and another with a pull, and you get out of phase issues (just some technical did ya know). IE, if you took the speaker, and hooked - to + and + to -, it should still produce what youre trying to hear, it just wont be quite right
EDIT: Quick digging, have a look at this! http://www.modifiedlife.com/1996-dod...iring-diagram/ see if it matches up with yours. ALSO you should note, i'm not sure how its going to affect sound playback as far as crossover and tweeters and such. When I replaced my system I replaced the whole thing and ran new wires for basically all of it where possible. If you have access to a multimeter you can run continuity tests on wires at head unit and door or places along the way to see if the wire is the same wire. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay...detail/85.html heres another, the 12volt is a great place for install help, they double checked my wiring for a remote start/alarm I self installed and told me about a neat relay also that saved me some work for that, so you might search around there if you ever feel like it :P
If you have any questions feel free to shoot, I've literally torn everything out of my interior and replaced the entire stereo system ect ect, and just happen to be majoring in a related engineering field :P
Also, from an audio stand point it doesn't really matter if + and - are even wired the proper way, as the only difference is related to if its a push or pull from the magnet to produce the soundwave, which is why if you didn't match all speakers everywhere, you could take a tone and play it, one speaker would begin the wave with a push and another with a pull, and you get out of phase issues (just some technical did ya know). IE, if you took the speaker, and hooked - to + and + to -, it should still produce what youre trying to hear, it just wont be quite right
EDIT: Quick digging, have a look at this! http://www.modifiedlife.com/1996-dod...iring-diagram/ see if it matches up with yours. ALSO you should note, i'm not sure how its going to affect sound playback as far as crossover and tweeters and such. When I replaced my system I replaced the whole thing and ran new wires for basically all of it where possible. If you have access to a multimeter you can run continuity tests on wires at head unit and door or places along the way to see if the wire is the same wire. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay...detail/85.html heres another, the 12volt is a great place for install help, they double checked my wiring for a remote start/alarm I self installed and told me about a neat relay also that saved me some work for that, so you might search around there if you ever feel like it :P
If you have any questions feel free to shoot, I've literally torn everything out of my interior and replaced the entire stereo system ect ect, and just happen to be majoring in a related engineering field :P
Last edited by Maximillio; Nov 12, 2017 at 02:37 AM. Reason: Some leads
Maximillio is completely right on the door wiring. They’re not the same as the head unit wires. You can google the diagram but if it’s the infinity amplifier you can either bypass the amp and run them off the built in amplifier from the radio. Or you can replace the amp. Assuming you have already checked all your wires to the amp and made sure they aren’t cut or shorted. Also audio plus sells a door speaker amplifier that bolts underneath the glovebox. You can replace the Infiniti amp with it and they’ll work great while having a lifetime warranty
I am having a similar issue with 1997 Ram 1500 Laramie but it’s only the driver side speaker, I somehow bypassed the amp on the passenger door and it works, then I got to the driver door and there were only 4 wires coming off the amp. I plugged in the red and black wires and it would work till I shut the truck off then when I turn the truck on, that whole door doesn’t work. I unplug the speaker and plug it back in and it works again till I shut off and turn on the truck. What could be the issue there? The stock speaker had a violet/light blue, green, red and black wires.
Probe the wires and make sure you have the proper ones wired to the speakers. I completely got rid of the stock everything so I cant really help you with that specifically. Also check your trucks diagram for what it says is the right color/location.







