Loose upper ball joint.
I second the ujoint comments. Look way too rusty. Get only Spicer 5-760x please!
No help here on ball joints as I'm still on stockers at 227k. But they should be super tight when pressed in. Get OEM spicer or Moog (maybe).
No help here on ball joints as I'm still on stockers at 227k. But they should be super tight when pressed in. Get OEM spicer or Moog (maybe).
Ha, those u-joints are fairly new, some surface rust but not bad. When I took my axles out I manipulated the joints to check their health. They don't bind, just look like hell. As far as the ball joints, I'm going to order some moogs throw them in there, then it still slips loose I'll tack them. Untill I either come across an axle at the salvage yard, or upgrade to the Dana 60. Everyone that responded, I appreciate your input, I truly value everyones experience.
I heard it's a hell of a lot easier just putting in new control arms that already have the ball joints pressed into them already, there a specific brand that's good? There's some el cheapos on ebay but idk if I'd trust em lol.....I'm sure my truck needs them
That ball joint (for this model 4x4 truck) is on the end of the front axle, if I'm not mistaken, so it would require replacing the axle housing, not the control arm, which comes off the axle housing.
As for fixing this issue, nice catch on the part quality. Replacing the ball joint with one of better quality would be best and would hopefully take care of the issue. If a quality replacement doesn't work any better, tack welding it in place will work fine. I've had to do that for several vintage upper control arms that are now hard to find/replace.
As for fixing this issue, nice catch on the part quality. Replacing the ball joint with one of better quality would be best and would hopefully take care of the issue. If a quality replacement doesn't work any better, tack welding it in place will work fine. I've had to do that for several vintage upper control arms that are now hard to find/replace.
Last edited by AtomicDog; Nov 26, 2017 at 05:58 PM.
Only to a point...... if the tapered shaft is fully seated in the knuckle, then no, it won't pull it down any further. If it isn't fully seated, you REALLY need to address that....
I can't see how that would be fully seated, unless it was a major screw up at the factory that made the splined part way too longh. Looks to be between 1/4 to 1/2" sticking up....
i used moog ball joints and the top one fell out a month after they were done i suspect the shop crammed them in crocked I had to get them tacked in but the guy tigged the whole top grinding will be needed ....











