I think I've done just about everything I've read on every forum. I just pray for the best here with you guys. 1995 Ram 1500 5.2 Ltr just bought,(have owned two prior) idled hard so changed iac and made a big difference. No more holding gas and brake at redlights. A week later clicking noise heard from fuse box beside battery under hood possibly fuel pump relay. Stopped cranking at times would have to wait to hear pump engage. I took down tank and removed pump... Looked brand new. Hot wired it to battery and it pumped perfect. Filter and strainer clean. Put back in tank and now hear it confer on but only with hotwire to fuse box in cab. 30amp . still not starting... Continuously turns over. Getting fuel to rails and at check valve. Hacer used multimeter to check nearly everything I believe. Power to ECM power to coil Power to fuse block and individual relays. Help Fellas

 

Is the check engine light on?

 

it was on when I bought truck... Would click consistently with fuel pump relay on and off when tried to crank... Now no check engine light. Maybe due to me trying to reset battery and computer???

 

Might try replacing the asd and fuel pump relays.

 

i certainly did actually replaced all relays. Getting power to relay box reading 12.7 volts and to relay connectors

 

Have you had your battery checked? If the battery's bad or weak, similar things can happen. Clicking noise in fuel pump relay, swap it with another relay from the box...they're interchangeable. If it stays in the fuel pump relay, then I'd start looking downstream of that. There's a possibility of corrosion in the connectors, especially if this pickup has lived it's life around salted roads or coastal regions. Ring out the pump wiring. Measure the resistance between the relay output n the fuel pump connector.

 

brand new battery shows 14.8 volts. Checked all connectors from green and black hot side of fuel pump relay. Nothing at pump even when disengaged and retried. I know that pump only comes on for a couple seconds.a lil corrosion in connector just behind firewall behind driver tire. Didn't look major at all but not getting a read there either

 

brand new battery shows 14.8 volts. Checked all connectors from green and black hot side of fuel pump relay. Nothing at pump even when disengaged and retried. I know that pump only comes on for a couple seconds.a lil corrosion in connector just behind firewall behind driver tire. Didn't look major at all but not getting a read there either
Single Working Sub Contractor Dad with both my sons with me ther past six years. Only by God's Grace! Gotta get this truck going.

 

I'm thinking more along the lines of a bad crank or cam sensor. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-manuals.html here's the link to download a factory service manual. Mopar sensors are prefered, or at least avoid BWD.

 

I feel your pain brother...single dad, 4 kids still at home. I've been puttin' 'ol blue back into top shape...ever so slowly...for years now. However, 2bit has a good thought, it's possible the crank sensor was damaged or destroyed when your tranny went **** up. It only takes a half an hour or so to pull/check or replace/reinstall that bugger (with the right tools of course) That aside...with the ignition switch in the "run" position, you should be getting constant voltage to the fuel pump, this acts to prime as well as a constant pressure for running operations even if the engine isn't "running". I would start at the fuel pump relay...remove it...jump the contact points for fuel pump power at the relay and check for power at the pump again or pressure at the fuel rail.and work your way back towards the fuel pump via wiring. The only other thing that comes to mind is the ECM.