I've got a 99 1500 Regular Cab, Short bed. I'm looking to reinforce the frame especially around the split, since that's the most likely place to fail and it looks a little weak, The rest of the truck is in great shape. I won't get into details about what I'm planning on doing with the truck so we can stay on topic, but lets just say my two options are to find and cut down a 3/4ton frame to fit my truck, or reinforce this frame and make it capable of handling a big engine and heavy axles, off roading, racing, sled pulling, towing, whatever. I'm leaning towards beefing up the 1500 frame after I saw this Not sure if I can post links: (or Search youtube: "Dodge Frame Reinforcement at Detroit Wrecker Sales")

A few questions or ways I can go about doing this:
1) box the frame use 3/16" plate like a 1500 frame
2) box the frame with 1/4" like a 2500 frame
3) Add 1/4"x4"x3" angle like in the video, optionally box it with 1/4
4) Add 3/16"x3x2 angle like in the video, but smaller, optionally box it with 3/16
5) Add 3/16"x4"x3" rectangular tube cut the 3" side out to match the frame, optionally box the rest with 3/16 (Just like option 4, but the add on section will already be boxed.)

When boxing or adding to the frame is it important to match the thickness of the steel added to the thickness that is already there to ensure the stress is distributed evenly? Can we discuss the pro's and con's of boxing the frame vs leaving it open? At the very least I will box a short area around the split.

 

Aren't the 1500 and 2500 frames constructed the same? I thought the only major difference was the springs used with those frames.

 

The 2500 frame is 1/4" thick and the 1500 frame is 3/16" thick after the split, The difference is considerable and noticeable. I own both trucks and have compared them with a caliper. The front half of the frame is the same on both trucks 3/16"

Also yes, the 1500 has 2.5" springs and the 2500 has 3" springs.

 

That's interesting. I checked my 97 1500 frame and my 98 2500 frame this last weekend because of reading that same thing, and they were both 1/4". If anything the 1500 was slightly thicker in a couple places. Both are Nevada trucks since new (no rust).
97 1500, 360, auto, 4x4, Dana 44 front, corporate 9 rear.
98 2500, 360, nv4500, 4x4, Dana 60 front, 70 rear.

 

My 1500 has a 5.2, It's a slim chance but that could be the reason. What is your cab size/bed length on your 1500? What's the GVWR of the 2500 and spring width? It's possible it's a LD 2500. I'm talking specifically about the rear half of the frame under the bed. The front half of the frame is the same on both trucks. Where did you take your measurements and what did you use to take them? I took mine where the rear end of the frame meets the hitch/bumper.

 

Both are extended cab short beds. The 2500 is the heavy duty 8800 GVWR with the 3" springs and overloads. I put the cab from the 1500 on to the 2500 frame.
I'll have to check right at the back to make sure I'm not telling you a story. When I checked mine, I checked the upper and lower flange in a few spots before and after the split and through a couple holes on each side with vernier calipers. I think the bumper and tow hitch are blocking the very back of the frame, but I'm not sure without looking again.

As for wanting to beef up the frame for off-roading stuff you might have better luck with other forums like pirate 4x4. They deal more with modifications. This place (dodgeforum) is great for getting and keeping your stuff running.

 

Thanks. Ill see what the guys at pirate say. I read some threads there that suggested exactly what you might think. Boxing the frame increases rigidity and decreases flex. Im leaning towards boxing the frame with matched thickness material and doing the angle in front/over the split.

I'll post pictures and exact measurements when the snow melts here.

 

He is correct on same frames. Tested mine today. 96 Ram 1500 4x4 extended cab sb and 01 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins extended cab sb. Both are 1/4 at the front, back, and the places I checked in between. My caliper is old though but seems to still work

 

My best guess is they changed it after the 1998.5 model year. Since both of you guys have early 2nd gens. Penny pinchers probably figured out they can save a few $$.

 

FYI, Here's a caliper on both frames. And a shot where the split is a little rotted and getting weak,