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High Idle and RPM Issues after new TPS

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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 08:43 PM
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Default High Idle and RPM Issues after new TPS

1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.2L

After solving all of my engine and suspension issues,Ive been in the clear for awhile until now.

Today I got a CEL for TPS High Input but didnt really have an issue. I bought a new TPS, and replaced it.

The CEL went away, but my truck now has high idle around 2000rpms cold/1500rpms warm. It also accelerates itself slowly until about 15mph.

Also,my issue where the rpms bounce between 1000 and 2000 when Im driving between 15 and 20mph has returned.

If I disconnect the TPS,the idle becomes normal and the issues go away.

Any suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 08:56 PM
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Either the new TPS is bad as well, or, there is a problem with the wiring. There's only three of 'em, so, trace 'em from the sensor, to the PCM, as that is where they will all end up.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Either the new TPS is bad as well, or, there is a problem with the wiring. There's only three of 'em, so, trace 'em from the sensor, to the PCM, as that is where they will all end up.
Ugh, they claim it was brand new, not reman or used. I'll get it replaced and letya know.
 

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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:00 PM
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Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good. I have gotten many dead parts, right out of the box.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good. I have gotten many dead parts, right out of the box.
Ok. Can you explain what I would do with wiring? If wires are bad,how do I replace them? Also, can I drive without tps?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:25 PM
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You can drive without it, but, you can also expect some truly strange behavior from both the engine, and the trans.

If you don't have the service manual for your truck yet, download one from here. Wiring diagrams are in section 8W, tps will be in the fuel and ignition section. Find the wires for the tps, note the colors, and what they do. There will be 5 volt reference from the PCM, signal return back to the pcm, and a ground wire. Also note which connector the wires go to, and which cavity in that connector.

First test, ignition "on", verify you are getting 5 volt reference TO the TPS. (check at the tps connector, you can unplug it for that.)
Second test: Plug it back in, and probe the signal return wire. Should be less than 1 volt with throttle closed, and go up as you open the throttle. An analog meter is really best for testing hear. (the one with a dial, and a needle that sweeps.) Voltage should go up SMOOTHLY, to somewhere greater than 3.5 volts at wide open throttle. If either end of that is out of range, or, the signal bounces around as you open the throttle, TPS is bad.

However, if you are getting weird voltages on the signal return wire during testing, unplug the connector again, and see if you still see any voltage on the return wire. If you do, you have a short somewhere, and will have to find it. Basically just peel the wires out of the convolute tubing, and see what you find. (yeah, that can be an exercise, ain't wirin' fun?)
 
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 10:09 AM
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Heyyou speax gospel here. We still like of think of ourselves as shadetree "mechanix", not technicians. Unfortunately, we need to be "technicians" FIRST, especially in today's computer controlled disneyland funhouse of reality distorting mirrors. How many times I've seen someone shoot their fully loaded parts cannon into their electro/mechanical marvel to no avail, only to discover...much to their dismay...
1)Dirty, corroded, bad or broken connector
2)Chaffed, pinched or broken wiring OR...
3)In the case of a hi salt diet (you northern folks know of which I speak), corrosion or rust, especially to those all important grounds.
The moral of this little story, invest in a $30 scanner capable of live data stream and a decent meter (yes, 1 that has capability of displaying analog style resistance/voltage readings to paint a bob ross style moving picture), usually round $50-100 online.
The money you save by trading in your best guess broadsword for the scanner/meter scalpels will more than pay themselves off the first time you realize you've a vacuum leak from say...a busted plastic HVAC line. Only this time, you took an extra 1/2 hour to look at a scanner if the engine runs or a meter n a wiring diagram id it don't. Armed with this warbel sword of new found knowledge, you search the tolgey woods of troubleshooting and find your mangsome foe that is the jabberwock, and just exposed itself on a longterm/shortterm fuel trim reading, n since you're so very slaphappy you discovered the problem early on, you head for the zone in breathless anticipation of 1 foot length of 1/4 inch vacuum line, snicker snack, you slap that bad boy on there n BOOM BABY...you're a technician who's just defanged your first automotive time/money dragon and with it's lifeless head, you crack open the day's first well earned brewski and enchant your friends with tales of how you did all this AND came galumphing back ready fer another!!!
AND, as a bonus, if any of this isn't true...it oughta be!!!
 
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