I will try running without the filter. I can hear the whistle under the hood at idle. It is magnified when I crack the throttle. I haven't directly checked the coil, but hooked the plug wires up to an oscilloscope and it is throwing plenty of voltage. I haven't checked it since replacing the wires.

 

So I haven't done a whole lot to the truck lately. I checked the oil and noticed I was about a half a qt. low and only about 1000 miles since my last change. Pulled the throttle body off again today and there is oil residue and pooling toward the firewall down in the keg. Looks like I will be doing the plenum gasket soon.

 

Yep. Sure sign of it.

 

If it makes you feel any better I'll be doing the gasket in my niece's Durango sometime next week. It'll be a rush to beat the sun so I won't be able to stop and take pics though.

 

I'm replacing mine this weekend

 

Hey rtyler8140, I have that same sound I bet. I have a 5.2 and it won't make that whistling or 'turbo like' sound unless it is warmed up a little and I get on it. I have an aftermarket intake (Spectre).

I bought a Mopar PCV but it still does it after it warms up. I was thinking of replacing the rubber grommet around the PCV valve. I may throw the stock intake back on and see if that was the cause. I can hear a slight whistling when it is idling but that is from the cone filter. (just intake sounds)

It shouldn't be that since it doesn't do it when the engine is cold. If you find an answer let me know. I will do the same. I just want all truck sounds coming out of the truck motor.

 

Looks like this may be the culprit. On a side note any tips for getting broken bolts out? Apparently the thermostat has been weeping and corroded the front to intake bolts. Heads sheared right off.

 

Pull the intake, which you apparently already have...... use a sharp, pointy object to clean around the base of the bolts where they go into the head. Hit them with some PB Blaster, and let it soak for 15 minutes. Grab a pair of vice grips, and clamp them onto the bolt as tight as you can manage. Apply more PB blaster. (be generous.) Now, grab a hammer.... doesn't have to be really big. Start tapping on the top of the broken bolt, while you wiggle the vice grips back and forth. You are not trying to get it to move by brute force, you want the chems, and the vibration from the hammer to loosen it up. Once it breaks loose, you should be able to thread it right out.

 

No such luck on the vise grips and aero kroil. Drilled out the bolts and tried an extractor. Ended up snapping the extractor off in the driver's side (apparently patience and finesse are not my forte). I got the passenger side drilled out and retapped. As a side note, masonry bits have carbide tips. These can be reground to a better angle and sharpened. They cut through hardened steel better than any other bit I had. There is a video on YouTube where a guy shows how to do it. I really hope this thing runs like a new truck when I finally get finished with it!

 

Believe it or not Kroil is a very bad penetrating fluid.