Just cut the bolts and use new ones.

With the valve covers off, it's easy to find #1 TDC compression stroke. I thought double checking the timing marks would help you learn. You could see for sure if it was correct or not.

 

Cut it with what? I have a sawzall but it's a pretty tight fit in there...

I also have a Dremel tool with the stones...

 

I was trying to get the passenger side head off first since 4, 6, and 8 all had no compression. I'll get back to work on it Wednesday or Thursday might be better after I take my math test.

It looked like the #6 rod was bent.

Am I supposed to remove the rocker arms or anything first to loosen pressure? Will the rods just fall out? I got most of the head bolts loose on passenger side except the lower back one because the exhaust manifold was in the way.

Is the V8 Magnum sohc or dohc. I know that sounds like a really newbie question. I'm still learning about engines. That's one reason I'm tearing it down.

It's like $58 per head and $270 for the whole engine-accessories at the pick n pull. I'll find a day to try to get it out. I need to get my 1994 gmc sierra registered first so I can haul the engine. I don't think the little saturn would like that load lol. Hopefully, though, I can just repair my heads or get the junkyard heads.

How would I cut the exhaust bolts at a pick n pull? My tools are electric.

 

#6 pushrod or connecting rod? If it's the pushrod it will just pull out either with the head out if you just pull it. Cut it with anything you can get in there for the bolts. The Magnums are single cam as they only have one cam gear (can't remember if you did a timing chain as you would have seen only one gear dual overhead cams have two usually one on each head). Also they technically aren't overhead cams, our can runs tight down the center of the motor.

 

Remove the rocker arms, keep them in order, then remove the pushrods, keep them in order as well. They wear in together, and randomly sticking them back in can cause issues.

 

The ones that are visible beneath the plenum.

Yeah ok makes sense. I remember seeing a dohc then because I tried to help a guy set the timing and it was much more dificdiff. There were chains going to each head.

I'll see if I can squeeze the sawzall in there, otherwise I'll try to grind it with the Dremel.

 

Ok. I will remove them then. When I changed the head on my cavalier ohv before I got the rods and arms all mixed up. Engine ran like crap. Then again, I didn't change the crankshaft and that was the main problem.

Give me a couple days to get back to work on the ram. I'm going out of town today and am going to get ANOTHER taat valve body for my 2002 saturn sl1 because the auto tranny keeps popping out of 4th. Solenoids tested good. I'm afraid itay need a tranny. Never swapped one before.

And I have a math test Thursday at college.

Thanks for all of your help and responses.

 

Sorry it took so long. Had trouble with those exhaust to pipe bolts. Bought some cutting wheels for my little Dremel. Sawzall didn't work too well.

Found one bent rod, and 3 valves on cylinders 4, 6, and 8 that caused no compression. Only got the passenger side head off so far. The was fluid in the cylinders but that might have been from taking off the head. I did drain the coolant and oil.

I think I will reuse the pistons and block. There was no damage to the pisPist that I could see.

















Now, what caused the bent rod and valves not to close? Cam? Are the valves sticking or bent. Did the timing chain break and cause it or did the valves cause the chain to break.

I do have a valve spring compressor so I'll need to work on getting the valves out and disconnecting the other exhaust pipe and removing the other head.

I think I would like to just replace all 16 valves and put the heads back on... And clean everything up.

What all do I need to change along with the valves? Guides? Seals? Ive kinda done it before but also changed a couple lifters ona cavalier and didn't know I was supposed to change ALL the lifters at the same time.

I'd like to hone the cylinders, put new valves in, and clean the heads up along with a new gasket set.

Can I get some suggestions and guidance please?

 

If the timing chain broke while the engine was running, the cam would stop turning, leaving a selection of valves hanging open, which the pistons then hit. You can see the divots from the valves in the tops of the pistons....... Those scars will cause trouble if you leave the pistons in there. The sharp edges will promote hot spots, which will cause pre-ignition (spark knock) which can destroy your engine. Time for a full rebuild, or replacement.

 

Well 8 pistons and 8 rings then? Stock size? I didn't do a very thorough inspection but I didn't really see any damage. I look along the cylinder walls and the top of the Pistons.

Shouldn't be too hard to change the Pistons? Take off the oil pan and switch them? Do I have to remove the block?