[QUOTE=Moparite;3399911]Could use electrolysis also, Depends on how large a scale you want to go. Seen this done on other forums but never tried it. This guy rambles a bit but you can see the final result at 12:30 if you get board.

Thank you!

 

Great thread and some great info in here. I think when i get the money up, I'm gonna buy a good pressurized sandblaster. I can see myself hand chippin' away at the bottom of my truck.....even if its a cleaner going procedure. I did take a look at the front end the other day and looks like I'm probably gonna be putting in some new coil spring buckets.

 

You'd be surprised how fast the little harbor freight needle scaler does its thing... I have more equipment than most people have, and that $30 needle scaler is one of my favorites for under car cleaning. Scale it off, pressure wash it off, let it dry out good for a couple days.. then hit it with fluid film.

If I'm restoring a muscle car that will be worth well north of 50k, you can be sure I'm using the rotisserie and pressure blaster. But for my beater cars that are just depreciating every year, I just keep them wet with fluid film...

 

I stole this picture from MoparFanatic21, hope you don't mind. I thought I'd add it here for people to try.

 

Thanks for the tip. I've always thought about buying a needle scaler, but didn't know if they worked good.

 

No I don't mind and that works really well as you don't need a clean surface to apply it. You don't even have to knock off the loose stuff. When it dries it is really hard but forgiving when hit (think of cement that when hit with something hard is like rubber). That paint I talked about before (I said saw it at a paint convention) haven't had time to log into the company computer to get the real name of it. We know it by GWY-58225#FD34, and I googled thth number but came up with nothing. I didn't forget about you 2Bit! Also the paint pictured above you can get in rattle cans or gallons. I got it free from work and it happened to be rattle cans.

 

I sand blasted the axle housings. I didn't have a way to move them after blasting, so they got sprayed right there. It was a Sandy mess. Your axles won't weigh 1500# though.



These parts were cleaned and then scuffed with 3M scotch Brite pads. I should have built 2 stands. The parts were to close to each other to get around them with the spray gun.


3M Accuspray. I used the 1.8 mm tip to spray KBS Rust Seal. It can be sprayed over scuffed or blasted surfaces. There's another product to use first if you can't remove all the rust.

 

Fancy spray gun, when those came out I almost bought one!

I usually put tarps under what I'm blasting so I can recycle the black beauty (media), and in general keep the place a little clean.

 

The frame was water blasted. It's quick and keeps the metal cool so it won't warp sheet metal.


We used small rollers to put 2 coats of KBS on the frame


KBS is very tough. You can see a ton of parts got dragged over the frame to be installed. No scratches or chips. We tried to be careful, but some of the parts were quite heavy.


I'm going to try it with out a top coat. It will fade in direct sun. If it fades they have a special primer that adheres to cured Rust Seal. Then I'll paint it purple to match the truck.

 

I know that isn't a Dodge but it is a good test for a rust coating which is the topic of this thread. And I can't buy stuff for the Oxidizer Special if the work truck isn't working. I still want to read about other coatings. I may try the Eastwood ceramic next.