You can rent a press from any parts store. Looks like a huge c clamp. Used for removal and installation.

 

I use a press to remove and install truck ball joints, but also use it with a high torque 3/4" air operated impact wrench. The impact is pretty strong and once broke the press across the C portion - thank goodness it was a cheap Chinese made press, so I just replaced it with another one. I'm too lazy to beat out ball joints

 

like ramman said, rent a press from an autoparts store. This will save you A LOT of hassle and it doesn't cost you anything.

 

Not a death wobble. Trust me, you know a death wobble when you get one. Also, using a press. I recommend "AGAINST" using any air tool on a ball joint press. Using a wrench allows the new joint to settle, an impact gun can drive it a little crooked, resulting in a broken tool, or damage joint, or damage control arm. I install all ball joint using just a wrench on the press. It's harder, but occasionally you will hear a pop, this is the joint settling into the hole squarely. I've been using my HF press for going on 10 years, haven't broken it. I know guys who do it with a gun, but, I just won't do it that way. My jeep was a PITA because of the way the castings are, but, doing it with a wrench allowed them to fully seat without much issue. I also usually use a little emery cloth the clean the hole, and make sure any nicks are removed.

 

So I've looked over my ball joints and most of them look fine, but my tie rod ends, all the boots are torn and there is a good inch of play in the steering bar thing, up and down, so I'm thinking that might be why I'm having a "death wobble" like thing going on. I've got it calmed down and mastered how to avoid certain speeds lol. I also noticed that my driver front caliper is not nearly as hot as the passenger front caliper. Suggestions?

 

My rule of thumb, when dealing with these kind of issues. Just replace everything. You can get a kit with everything you need for less than 150 bucks on ebay, the quality isn't bad. Piece mealing it gets expensive. Done is several times already dealing with Jeeps and Dodges. If you are a heavy use guy, spend more and get better quality. One caliper hotter than other? Check the sliders, check the hoses, bleed, then check again, uneven pad wear is a good indicator of whats going on with your brakes
https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...ad-wear-chart/

Tires: cupped or worn tires are known vibration culprits on this type of axle/steering set up.
Shocks: Rarely cause a vibration, but worn shocks can set you up to really feel one...

my truck vibrates all the time, rotating the tires helped, but the front end is worn out, this led to more tire wear, and right back to vibration. It's on my list of things to do, Yup, getting the kit from ebay. 4 new tires(hah, I can get 4 new ones for 475, worked out a deal with one of my customers, cost baby!) Never judge a mechanic by his personal vehicle.

 

You may want to give the "thing" a name. If you have that much movement it will cause the wobble. I think you are talking about the pitman arm rod end. It's not named here but it's right in front of the diff cover at the end of the drag link. This is not exact to our trucks but it gives you the names.

 

From this I'd say my Drag Link and Tie Rods are all busted, a good inch of play is in the Drag Link.
I'm sure the track bar could be replaced as well, thank you for this diagram!

 

 

I don't know much about oversized tires, but is that a lot of wheel weights all in a row?