No need for the thanks, but thanks! The prices are a little steep (who is going to spend $17,000 for a lift kit with 18/22" of flex) when you get a custom suspension with easily 25" of flex for a little more. Their customer service is horrible to. If you have a custom fab shop near you (California has them like Starbucks) they could bend the DOM tubing. If you bought the materials (MAYBE $1,000) and paid the shop (MAYBE another $2,000 and that's high) you could create the same thing for way less then what you want. A forum member here made his own crossover steering (I think for about $650) when DOR wants $900. He even had a shop bend the tubing.

 

Around here ( Middle Ga.), their is no fab shops. Well, their is but I dont think they could make a hamburger. Im trying to do things the right way before putting a set of 33/12.50-r16 bf Goodrich mud terrain tires and it's about to get the best of me. If it ain't the quality of the parts it's that they cost $8,000,000. Most people around here say just through a set of tires on and ride but I'm trying to do it right, plus, eventually I will go through and change the gears and put a set of 35's. If I go ahead and spend the money now and get good parts I won't have to do it again with the bigger tires and a 3in lift.

 

I run a few shops that I started (all East coast) and let me do some research for you and see if I can find a better setup then the 98-99HD T steering. Give me a few days. If you want you can pm me and I'll give you my mobile number so you can text or call me.

 

Ok, Thanks! I'm really having a hard time finding some parts.

 

No problem at all. I like helping fellow Mopar owners!

 

If you need a part # or anything else just let me know and I'll respond as fast as I can, might not respond at that very min, ( I do construction work) lol.

 

The *real* crossover steering systems would be good. Some require you machine the top of the knuckle, to install the steering arm, others just sell you the knuckle, and call it a day. Biggest problem with the HD steering, is how the drag link connects to the tie bar. It tends to roll, instead of turn the wheels. Gives a nice dead spot in the steering. Sure, there are ways to address that.....

Trouble with the '*real* system though, is the drag link, and track bar, are no longer equal length, so, instead, you get bump steer..... Such fun.

 

Bump steer should be able to be eliminated with the steering stabilizer or a dual setup

 

They will dampen the shock, but, the bump steer is product of steering geometry. With the drag link, and track bar being different lengths, as the passenger side travels up or down, it will cause the front wheels to turn as well. Only way to fix that, is to have the both be the same length.

 

Which I think an adjustable track bar would do or get it close