When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
+1 on the antiseize. I use the Napa brand. Not sure if you have unitized bearings in that year, but you do not want to go pounding on the other side of the bearings, unless you've already decided to replace those bearings - because you likely will need them after that. I've seen people grab ahold of the hub flange and actually separate the unitized bearing - and the rest is still stuck in the steering knuckle. Use the power steering trick, just keep bumping those bolts, it'll crack loose and then spray PB directly in the loose part and let it penetrate and do its job.
+1 on the antiseize. I use the Napa brand. Not sure if you have unitized bearings in that year, but you do not want to go pounding on the other side of the bearings, unless you've already decided to replace those bearings - because you likely will need them after that. I've seen people grab ahold of the hub flange and actually separate the unitized bearing - and the rest is still stuck in the steering knuckle. Use the power steering trick, just keep bumping those bolts, it'll crack loose and then spray PB directly in the loose part and let it penetrate and do its job.
You mean unitized bearings? What they call wheel hubs? You can absolutely separate the bearing on a wheel hub - its not a good thing and you'll be buying new ones. Don't hammer on the flange the wheel bolts to, just don't even touch it. Work the other side, that is against the steering knuckle. I wanted to make sure he knew that, those wheel hubs aren't cheap.
Yeah I was whacking it lightly with a rubber mallot for a second before I gave up and went back inside to read the forum and saw that, so I stopped. I tried the screwdriver/chisel thing and it looks like it’s either denting the knuckle or bearing in instead of separating. I’ll wake up and try tapping those bolts on the back side out first, then around 9 am or 10 I’ll start it up and do the power steering hack. Tuesday everyone’s usually gone by then, thank god I have Monday and Tuesday off lol.
On another note, I just now broke my ratchet trying to get the driver side axle nut off, and I don’t have money for another one, so I’ll figure that out tomorrow, gave up for the night lol.
I’ll keep you updated on the actual ball joint thread I have started already instead of this, as I hope the caliper I got today will fix that issue. If not, you’ll see this thread pop up again
thanks again for all the responses, this forum is always saving my as$
You mean unitized bearings? What they call wheel hubs? You can absolutely separate the bearing on a wheel hub - its not a good thing and you'll be buying new ones. Don't hammer on the flange the wheel bolts to, just don't even touch it. Work the other side, that is against the steering knuckle. I wanted to make sure he knew that, those wheel hubs aren't cheap.
You city folk an your fancy terms for things bet you guys call whackamados hammers to I thought they were junk so both my suggestions won't work. I never saved them
On another note, I just now broke my ratchet trying to get the driver side axle nut off, and I don’t have money for another one, so I’ll figure that out tomorrow, gave up for the night lol.
Ugh... yeah, that is why they call them breaker bars... you get the bolt broken loose, THEN use the ratchet to take it off
I bought one of these for my breaker bar, cause I need the extra leverage on tough jobs.... apparently I'm gettin' atrophe effects from long hours doing the desk job... But I don't get stuck not being able to disassemble something in the jyard !
If the ratchet is autozone or sears, maybe you have a lifetime warranty? Sometimes the sell just the inside parts for those too... options...
BTW, you likely already have the ideal "tool" to keep the hub from spinning while you work that axle nut loose. Put the spare tire on (cause its wide open over the whole area) and lower the truck back on the ground... put it in Park, or parking brake.. then break that axle nut loose. Mostly I just use the impact wrench, but when I'm without it - that is how I do it.
I think I’ll go take a look at that today, or honestly I might just try to get the passenger side done today then I’ll do the driver side next week. I got work tomorrow in the AM 😬 I’m about to try that power steering trick once everyone in my building leaves though
also, yesterday I bought a 3foot long black steel pipe to keep the hub from spinning and another 9 foot long pipe as a cheater bar, but I could have easily just used the tire. I feel stupid lol
I would replace both front calipers and the lines. I had a caliper just fall apart when changing the brakes on the front of my 2012 Ram. Got the drive's side caliper off and the piston fell out of it in several pieces.
Ugh... yeah, that is why they call them breaker bars... you get the bolt broken loose, THEN use the ratchet to take it off
I bought one of these for my breaker bar, cause I need the extra leverage on tough jobs.... apparently I'm gettin' atrophe effects from long hours doing the desk job... But I don't get stuck not being able to disassemble something in the jyard !
If the ratchet is autozone or sears, maybe you have a lifetime warranty? Sometimes the sell just the inside parts for those too... options...
bet you guys call whackamados hammers to 
