​​​​​​ No it taps in right after the vacuum line that comes off the centered

 

Yes. The vacuum line from the cruise control assembly under the battery box connects to the throttle body on the drivers side. It also branches off the same line, at the throttle body, and goes to my blend door control with two other lines that go through the firewall into the cab. There are two check valves in this area of the system. One right off of the throttle body then in one of the lines that go through the fire wall. Trying to get some pics together. Also I traced a large vacuum line to the rear of the cab on the passenger side that has a round canister and a rectangular canister. Looks like one of these lines are for the fuel tank. Anyway one large and one small line was completely off their respective " nipple" or connection point, and badly cracked and deteriorated. One is just a 1/2" tubing with a 90 degree into the rectangular box, but the other is where two smaller lines go into to single " nipple" or port on the round canister. Damn a vacuum system!!!

 

vacuum for the interior stuff should be off from a port on the side of the intake.

 

If this pic worked, this is how my lines run. And I'm probably wrong on the term throttle body/ intake!!! And I can't type as the picture comes up!!! But you see what I mean! Thanks again!!

 

last time I changed the fluid it made it drive worse.

 

Transmission shops have a scanner that can read transmission fluid temperature. A good one will have free or cheap diagnostics in the hopes that they'll get your business if they find an issue.
My transmission overheated and kicked out of overdrive the day I bought it, I was told it was a bad torque converter.

 

Alright first of all my apologies for basically having two different problems all in the same thread. I'll work on the vacuum leaks later.
I have removed the check valve in the cooling line of the tranny. Soooooo... After changing out my rear brake cylinders, shoes and hardware, I noticed two drops of oil from my tranny. I snugged up the pan a little and took it for a spin to test the brakes. After being grateful that everything tested good and being able to get up off the ground, I parked it. Treated myself to a cold one!!! Went back out and notice tranny fluid had been leaking out. I should say pouring out. Upon inspection I realized that I had squeezed the Tranny gasket out. I did use silicone when I did the filter change. And torqued to required specs. So I ask, reuse the gasket with or without any sealants? Or get a new one? Also your thoughts on the governor solenoid and pressure transducer since the pan is coming back off.
Remember when my knocking motor turned out to be the tensioner?

 

Replace the gasket with one of the good ones. (viton, or whatever it is, it's reusable.) Don't use any sealer. When the pan is off, make sure the bolt holes aren't dimpled. If they are, flatten 'em out. Don't overtorque when reinstalling the pan. There is a spec for that, and a pattern, stick with it.

If you electronics are original, go ahead and replace them, adjust the bands while you are in there.

 

Got the good tranny gasket this time. " MOPAR", wasn't cheap but it was a far better gasket. Thanks for that one. I did have to flatten out some dimpled pan holes, again thank you. 13 ft/lbs. and no more. Ran it about 20 miles or so and so far so good! It takes about an hour or more driving when the O/D would kick off. I hope to make that trip next weekend. I can't remember the code number it gave the last time it kicked off. It was a "P" code, "TCC PERF SOL" I think. I read somewhere on here that it takes 3 to 4 occurrences to cause a code. Hoping it won't kick off after removing the cooling line check valve. Thanks again.

 

How much of an RPM change do you see? If it's only 2-300, that is TCC, if it is a significant jump, that's O/D.