FYI, I have seen track bar and tie rod end joints separate, where the ball comes completely out of the socket and leaves it disconnected. It does happen.

 

Yeah, but, usually, by the time a joint gets that bad, the driver should notice something isn't right.....

 

it was driving great for a while. Then all of a sudden it just decided to loosen I guess

 

I feel like half of it has to do with the suspension on the front end just because of how rough it is putting a lot of pressure on those bars. Would it help to get some new shock absorbers on the front and make for a bit of a smoother ride? Or does it just stay like that pretty much because the truck is so heavy?

 

Better shocks will help the ride, not the parts we're talking about though. I used Skyjacker hydros with my lift kit and it was like riding on bricks. But it had no roll or sway whatsoever. Then I replaced them with M95 gassers and wow it was plush. More body roll with that but it's so much more pleasant to ride.

One thing that may contribute to track bar wear is worn control arm bushings. I threw a set of Skyjacker arms on mine with poly bushings and it really tightened things up. If they are worn, then the track bar is working harder keeping everything together.

The bars are designed to handle the pressure. The stock track bar lasted for 60k on mine. Others last even longer. It was really a problem with the diesels since there's so much more weight on them. And they use the same part as the 1500s. Dodge finally realized this and changed to the two eyelet design in 3rd gen. That's why there's so many conversion kits. It's also an issue on Fords and Jeeps, anything with a solid axle. If you want to study up, research Jeep suspensions.

 

Alright ill have to grab those bushings and see what happens. I figured Jeeps didn't have as much of an issue because my mom owned several plus they are very light, well if they do. Definitley not as much as this damn thing does I'd guess. Should I just get the Moog tie rod ends?

 

One would think. However the mass production parts houses have patently failed the American people. Cheap aftermarket ball/socket type rod ends sometimes crack and break before showing signs of wear. It's very difficult to get decent aftermarket replacement parts (of any type) any more, as I am sure you are aware. Ever gotten a good brake master cylinder first try? I don't think I have, whether I spend $40 or $200.

 

You can. Ac Delco is also good. But if you get the T steering get ac Delco for sure. They still ship with the proper puck bushing. I would also ditch those old stabilizers (shocks) on the tie rod. Then get the toe to zero and drive on.

 

Alright cool, toe to zero? Never heard of it, is that in terms of the alignment? I did just get an alignment but that was right before the tie rod was replaced. I wanted to ask also, was gonna put up another post but figured better off since this one is up. The dodge steering is already pretty tight as it is so would this heavy truck be better off with front or a rear locker for mud and snow.

 

With my good ol luck. The tie rod disconnected on my way home from Jersey after I got the alignment and my new tires put on