New Truck
#1
New Truck
I got the blue Cummins that I had another thread about. It has a few dodge problems already, lol, and a few that I just wanna address after driving it:
1. The brake system. The brake and abs light are on, I noticed that when I come to a slow crawl, under 5mph, that the brakes seem to grab really tight and brake like on a dime if I press it too hard. Should I replace the rear sensor? Or get them bled somewhere?
2. My passenger door doesn't open. has both latches, but it won't open....why?
3. The Heater.....it only works on high, defrost, and it has this awful noise from the blower motor. Do I just have to replace the blower motor? it seems like its coming from under glove compartment.
4. My driver door lock doesn't work? Doesn't move up or down, doesn't lock, just unlocks.
5. The Rust..lol, there's a bit of it, and work to be done. There is a black spot on the back passenger bed. not rusted just painted black for some reason.....I've never done body work, I'm guessing I'd just have to call around to shops or maybe see online for new "rocker panels"? its right underneath the driver door. Rotted to sh*t. I'll need to get a new door before I get paint too. The bottom of the door is garbage.
I'll have to get a good video around it sometime but I don't have it registered or plated to me yet, so when I do I'll get a nice video.
On the bright side, this thing is really fast, I've never been in a Cummins let alone driven one until that test drive, and it hauls a$$, compared my old truck at least.
The previous owner said he had gotten a built transmission for it three years ago, a lift pump, injection pump, injectors, 4" mbrp? exhaust to a 6" tip, stage 2 intake, 3 piece exhaust manifold, 18" slotted rotors, and its on 33's. It has a touch screen radio, decent speakers, the lightbar is connected to a wire strip. I plan to go get better speakers, wire, and a wiring kit for my sub that I had in my last dodge. Put my old system back in this with all new speakers, tweeters, my old amp, my old sub, and the radio that's in it now.
This is the only picture I have of it from the Ad, on my computer at least. I'll post more eventually. Glad to be in a Dodge again!
1. The brake system. The brake and abs light are on, I noticed that when I come to a slow crawl, under 5mph, that the brakes seem to grab really tight and brake like on a dime if I press it too hard. Should I replace the rear sensor? Or get them bled somewhere?
2. My passenger door doesn't open. has both latches, but it won't open....why?
3. The Heater.....it only works on high, defrost, and it has this awful noise from the blower motor. Do I just have to replace the blower motor? it seems like its coming from under glove compartment.
4. My driver door lock doesn't work? Doesn't move up or down, doesn't lock, just unlocks.
5. The Rust..lol, there's a bit of it, and work to be done. There is a black spot on the back passenger bed. not rusted just painted black for some reason.....I've never done body work, I'm guessing I'd just have to call around to shops or maybe see online for new "rocker panels"? its right underneath the driver door. Rotted to sh*t. I'll need to get a new door before I get paint too. The bottom of the door is garbage.
I'll have to get a good video around it sometime but I don't have it registered or plated to me yet, so when I do I'll get a nice video.
On the bright side, this thing is really fast, I've never been in a Cummins let alone driven one until that test drive, and it hauls a$$, compared my old truck at least.
The previous owner said he had gotten a built transmission for it three years ago, a lift pump, injection pump, injectors, 4" mbrp? exhaust to a 6" tip, stage 2 intake, 3 piece exhaust manifold, 18" slotted rotors, and its on 33's. It has a touch screen radio, decent speakers, the lightbar is connected to a wire strip. I plan to go get better speakers, wire, and a wiring kit for my sub that I had in my last dodge. Put my old system back in this with all new speakers, tweeters, my old amp, my old sub, and the radio that's in it now.
This is the only picture I have of it from the Ad, on my computer at least. I'll post more eventually. Glad to be in a Dodge again!
#2
1. From the ad, " as well as triple piston calipers along with 18" slotted and drilled zinc coated rotors "... I suspect that is the cause... but I'd leave it be, you've got other issues.
2. Rear door? Common issue, Its likely fused with rust
3. Likely you need a new speed resistor, and a new blower motor.
4. Likely the mechanism is fused with rust, or the actuator rod dropped off
5. Find good used bolt off parts (doors, tailgate, bed, fender). Buy a new rear bumper. See if you can afford to have someone weld in replacement rockers (you need the backsides too). Create a plan and execute.
2. Rear door? Common issue, Its likely fused with rust
3. Likely you need a new speed resistor, and a new blower motor.
4. Likely the mechanism is fused with rust, or the actuator rod dropped off
5. Find good used bolt off parts (doors, tailgate, bed, fender). Buy a new rear bumper. See if you can afford to have someone weld in replacement rockers (you need the backsides too). Create a plan and execute.
#3
1. No idea. My brakes suck.
2. Suicide door? Latches froze and/or the cable broke. Remove door panel and replace cable mech.
3. Yep, get a new motor and resistor. It's right under the glove box and very easy to replace.
4. Remove the door panel and find out what's going on. Actuators suck. I was so happy to get my crank window gem!
5. Have fun.
2. Suicide door? Latches froze and/or the cable broke. Remove door panel and replace cable mech.
3. Yep, get a new motor and resistor. It's right under the glove box and very easy to replace.
4. Remove the door panel and find out what's going on. Actuators suck. I was so happy to get my crank window gem!
5. Have fun.
#4
Fixed the heat issue and got that passenger side rear door to open, its really sticky though. Brakes have gotten better, not as touchy, maybe it just sat for a long time and they haven't been used?
Gotta figure out why the brake and abs lights are on though in order to pass an echeck...should I just go get the codes read? Haven't gotten to look at the door lock just yet, i'm off tomorrow though, so hopefully I'll have some more progress then!
Sub and amp are in now too, sounds great
Gotta figure out why the brake and abs lights are on though in order to pass an echeck...should I just go get the codes read? Haven't gotten to look at the door lock just yet, i'm off tomorrow though, so hopefully I'll have some more progress then!
Sub and amp are in now too, sounds great
#5
Fixed the heat issue and got that passenger side rear door to open, its really sticky though. Brakes have gotten better, not as touchy, maybe it just sat for a long time and they haven't been used?
Gotta figure out why the brake and abs lights are on though in order to pass an echeck...should I just go get the codes read? Haven't gotten to look at the door lock just yet, i'm off tomorrow though, so hopefully I'll have some more progress then!
Sub and amp are in now too, sounds great
Gotta figure out why the brake and abs lights are on though in order to pass an echeck...should I just go get the codes read? Haven't gotten to look at the door lock just yet, i'm off tomorrow though, so hopefully I'll have some more progress then!
Sub and amp are in now too, sounds great
#6
Where I live in PA can't have ABS lights on for inspection they said it's a safety issue.
#7
https://www.pacode.com/secure/data/0...5/s175.80.html
see 4 (iv).
A brake warning lamp or other device indicates a malfunction of the braking systems unless the vehicle is equipped with an antilock braking system (ABS) which is designed to revert to standard braking operation and no driveability deficiency or loss of braking performance is present.
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#8
Google knows everything...
https://www.pacode.com/secure/data/0...5/s175.80.html
see 4 (iv).
A brake warning lamp or other device indicates a malfunction of the braking systems unless the vehicle is equipped with an antilock braking system (ABS) which is designed to revert to standard braking operation and no driveability deficiency or loss of braking performance is present.
https://www.pacode.com/secure/data/0...5/s175.80.html
see 4 (iv).
A brake warning lamp or other device indicates a malfunction of the braking systems unless the vehicle is equipped with an antilock braking system (ABS) which is designed to revert to standard braking operation and no driveability deficiency or loss of braking performance is present.