Hey all, I'm still having some braking issues, hoping to finally sort it out. The old post I started about this problem over a year ago:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ake-pedal.html

Done some more work and had another shop look at it, since that post but its still not braking as it should.

Full list of things done in order(not including inspections, or bleeding):
(by me:
Replaced MC(Autozone).
Replaced rear shoes, drums, springs, wheel cylinders(Autozone, Dorman spring kit).

(at shop A ~$330:
Leaking(I think damaged on removal by me) rear driver side hard line replaced.
Replaced MC x2(Napa, thought I got a bad one, and thought his first one was bad.
Replaced booster(Napa).

They left the rears over adjusted and didn't adjust the brake light switch after the booster install, so I left the shop with dragging brakes and brake lights stuck on.. drove about 5 miles, hot rear brakes and that was the worst mileage I ever saw lmao.

(by me:
Adjusted rears so they were not dragging.
Adjusted brake light switch so lights didn't stay/randomly be on.
Replaced front passenger bearing/hub assembly(Timken).
Replaced calipers(Powerstop).

(at shop B ~$140:
Replaced the park brake, actuator and adjuster lever etc, and adjuster screw assembly parts(Dorman).

I got the truck back and it was better, but felt like it was only braking with the rears, and was locking up one or both rears occasionally.

(at shop C ~$950 I went in suggesting they might try replacing the proportioning valve, told them all that had been done prior but to look over everything:
They found one side had a bent "pin" on the support plate(driver I think it was), it was barely tweaked, but it wasn't straight, so they replaced the support plate.
Did a good bleed and said he got some air out, but it was very little.
He found that the line that shop A used to replaced the driver rear line with was possibly not the same inner diameter as the OEM on the pass side, but didn't think that would be the cause of my problems.
Replaced MC(OEM).
Cleaned out proportioning valve, he said it was very dirty/clogged possibly.

Brakes were much better, and pedal felt pretty normal. I would say that the brakes were maybe 70-80% of normal stopping power though.

I've had the truck back a few weeks now, put new tires on it, new battery was needed, been driving it 3-4 days a week 5-15 miles or so usually for work and even took it on a "road trip" with the family, about 300 miles total. It doesn't stop great, but it's manageable on dry roads. It will throw the ABS and brake light on randomly sometimes, I thought it was maybe brake switch, but info I've found says that if faulty that will only occur at/above 40 mph. Mine have come on while pulling out of a gas station, not hitting near 40.

We had some rain recently, just enough to wet the roads and while braking "normally" down from about 40mph in traffic it felt like everything locked up.. I thought I was going to run into the car in front of me, the truck slid from the middle lane to the right about halfway into the right lane over a distance I would guess was about 15+ yards, luckily no one was next to me in the right lane I had no control. This was on wrangler duratracs 33x12.5x15 with about 100 miles on them, shouldn't be locking up like that in a light rain.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, again. Thanks for reading.

Additional note: On the trip my mileage was so bad after making it to the cabin we realized that the trip to a crater off the highway we had planned was out of our safe fuel range and cancelled that. Blown plenum again? I know its time for rotor, cap, plugs and wires.. maybe she is just getting too tired, over 197k miles now.

 

I had the infamous ABS and Brake light on here is what I did. Note: my brakes were crappy when the light was on but got way better when I fixed them
mine turned out be a broke wire in the frame connector (the one that is wrapped in silicone even though the silicone was perfectly intact). Then I had air in the rear brakes.
You can pull the ABS coffee by grounding PIN #13 (a wire will work) in the OBDII connector then count the flashes of the ABS light.

 

I knew there was a way to get the light to flash, couldn't remember how, thank you.

Can I do this anytime? Does it store the code or does the light need to be on prior to turning the truck off?

 

From my understanding it will store some but not all. Best bet is when the light is on

 

What front pads did you put on? Did you have the rotors turned/replaced?

 

I have not changed them out during all this, they seem to be in fine shape last time I looked, they were changed about a year before the troubles started, would make it about 2 years total on them now but the truck doesn't get driven every day. Been using Hawk HPS pads(blue box) and Bendix rotors combo from Summit since like 2009 when needed, I always just replace them both at same time.

 

Have you replaced the rear brake hose?

 

I have not replaced any of the brake hoses.

 

Replacing them all may be a good idea. At least help narrow your problem if there are other issues.

 

I agree, couldn't hurt.

There isn't much else left to replace.