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Dead pedal

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Old 12-31-2018, 01:16 PM
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Default Dead pedal

I have replaced almost everything from the fuel tank to the vp44 with a sump kit and fass pump with all new fuel line upgrade fuel filter and water separator new tps,clean ground wires,new batteries and cables.In temperature below 40 degrees dead pedal goes away but I live in Florida.Starts and runs good for the first 5 miles then at random I get dead pedal let off pedal for 2 seconds go to WOT. Runs good for a minute then right back to dead pedal. Any one got help??!!??
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:10 PM
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Have you done APPS reset? Found this:

I presume you are not getting a check engine light, and have seen no fault codes.
The first step in a 24 valve that is experiencing the dead pedal syndrome is to do the APPS reset procedure. This teaches the fly-by-wire accelerator pedal position sensor to reset to a zero position and syncronize with the ECM. 1. Set your parking brake. 2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries, then turn on the ignition key and turn on your lights to kill the charge in the air bag and charging system capacitors. As an alternative you can let the truck set with the batteries disconnected for 30 minutes, but is not necessary if you do the above. 3. Switch ignition to the off position, and turn off the light switch. 4. Reconnect both negative battery cables. 5. Turn ignition key to run position (not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor - take 5 seconds to do this, so go slow. 6 Return the accelerator to the off, or top, position very slowly - take another 5 seconds. 7. Turn ignition key to OFF 8. Release the parking brake, and the ECM has now relearned the zero and wide open positions of the accelerator pedal. If this does not solve the problem, you will need to check your fuel supply pressure and make sure it is within the parameters. Also, check the connectors for the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor. If you are getting a check engine light and have fault codes, get the system scanned and read both the codes and any companion codes. Those codes are pretty good at pointing you in the right direction. Generally speaking, when the check engine light and fault codes are present the problem is usually either the transfer pump or the VP44 injection pump.
 



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