Front end vibration
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Front end vibration
so, I got a 1998 ram 2500 5.9 Cummins. Up here in Canada we had a bad snowfall the other day and I was in 4x4 almost the whole night with bad vibrations (drivesshaft u-joint is shot). The next morning on my way to work I notice my 4x4 dash light flickering on and off every bump and it sounds like my front differential has engaged both axles even when im in 2hi. 4x4 still works and a steady light comes on when engaged. I took her on the highway and it started vibrating about 70kmh, so I bumped her up to 105 or so and I felt a little “bump” then no more vibration. Drove her home, put her in 4x4 and it works, drove back on the highway and truck is good to go. Did I brake something in my front end? Pulled the drain plug and had some oil in it but no shavings. Spun the front driveshaft and 3/4 of a spin, spins freely then gets tight for the other 1/4 then spins freely again, it’s tight from the axle input shaft cause if I just grab that it’s the tightest.. any ideas without pulling off the pumpkin?
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From: Clayton MI
You have a failing u-joint. Either in the shaft itself, or, one of the axles.
The front axle is vacuum operated. If you have a leak on one side or the other (engage/disengage) you get odd behavior. I had a problem with moisture buildup as well, in the steel part of the vacuum lines...... I discovered it when it got really cold, and when I pulled on the expensive stick, nothing happened......
Parked the truck in the garage, pointed the torpedo heater under the front, let it run for an hour, and blew out the lines with compressed air. (I have a compressor in the garage, doesn't everyone???) The steel lines really like to rust out though...... Here is a bit of a help-me on how the whole system is supposed to work.
The front axle is vacuum operated. If you have a leak on one side or the other (engage/disengage) you get odd behavior. I had a problem with moisture buildup as well, in the steel part of the vacuum lines...... I discovered it when it got really cold, and when I pulled on the expensive stick, nothing happened......
Parked the truck in the garage, pointed the torpedo heater under the front, let it run for an hour, and blew out the lines with compressed air. (I have a compressor in the garage, doesn't everyone???) The steel lines really like to rust out though...... Here is a bit of a help-me on how the whole system is supposed to work.
Champion
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If you know the driveshaft is bad, start there with new ujoints. Didn't know D60s had drain plugs but if there's no glitter or shavings, you're fine there. Probably the sticking ujoint and possibly vacuum leak partially engaging the shift fork.
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Glitter?
what’s wrong with glitter? I have glitter in my rear end every time I check it but no shavings.
Legend
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Basically do a visual inspection. You could spin the carrier and see if the bearings sound or feel bad
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Champion
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The differentials should have turned the gold oil gray with fine fine gear "dust" so that it shimmers only under a light but otherwise looks like old engine oil. If you see actual glitter like a teenage girl puts on her face, then the "dust" is now granular like fine sand and serious wear and tear is happening. Slivers or chunks is the next step before kaboom.
When I change my diffs every two years, I inspect the oil, wash it out with fresh oil making sure to get all the nooks and crannies, and look at each gear tooth to see how they look. Any chips or rounded edges means bad.
When I change my diffs every two years, I inspect the oil, wash it out with fresh oil making sure to get all the nooks and crannies, and look at each gear tooth to see how they look. Any chips or rounded edges means bad.
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Thank you very much, I’m changing the diff fluid tommorow and I’m gonna inspect every little think, I’ll look to make sure all the edges are pointed not rounded and post a picture. Anyone know of any good aftermarket upgraded rear end gear shops or websites in Ontario Canada?