Can anyone tell me from experience if a straight across tie rod (like in aftermarket HD t-style setup steering) clear the differential cover at full lock on a dana 60 out of a ram 2500 4wd? I'm wanting to go with a kit from Barnes or similar with GM HD rod ends and 1.5 x .25 DOM tubing, with straight (not offset) tie rod ends under the knuckle like the stock set up... Any direct experience greatly appreciated!

 

The stock setup has offset ones. Straight will not clear. The passenger side and drive side have about a 45 degree angle on both the T and Y steering.

 

I can tell from personal experince, that it will not clear. But, if the tie rod is flipped above the knuckles, it should. There were some issues with that which I don't recall at the moment.

 

Taper of the hole, would have to drill out the knuckles

 

No, not that. It's easy part to drill the taper to a straight hole and use the taper inserts. But, there will be clearence issue with the sway bar brackets. IIRC, later models have different bracket than my '95. It would need some modification, just a little trimming is not an option.

 

Thanks guys, I was thinking it might hit...

This isn't on the truck anymore... it's on a "frankenvan" where because the frame configuration is much lower over the axle and steering than on the trucks, my current upward travel limitation is the passenger side tie rod joint with the TRE on the end of the drag link. They'll hit the frame at full compression.

The factory HD steering tie rod is angled forward on both sides from where the TRE's mate with the knuckles to yield differential cover clearance. This will works "OK" for me, but on the passenger side where the drag link connects to the tie rod, there's a bit of a rise in the tie rod as it comes away from the knuckle and most importantly (and worse) the taper joint where the drag link TRE connects to the tie rod is angled up over 45 degrees... this makes the TRE on the drag link stick up 1 1/2 - 2 inches higher than if the tie rod didn't have a rise to it and were angled at 90 degrees. As I place the bump stops, the factory dodge tie rod is going to cost a couple inches of upward travel on that side...

Most of the T-link (or Y-link by some folks) setups based on 1 ton chevy TRE's using 1.5" x .25" DOM, welded inserts, under the knuckle, etc... the passenger side tie rod end doesn't rise from where it leaves the knuckle and the taper for the drag link TRE is angled at 90 degrees from the knuckle tie rod end. In that case the TRE from the DRAG link would be pointed forward and not upward toward the frame like the factory dodge HD steering... Sorry no good pictures handy... will work on something if folks have questions or thoughts...

Looking at it further and comparing with my 2nd gen truck, it really doesn't need a lot of extra room for clearance, I'm thinking that if I go with the gm hd t / y link tie rod kit / setup from Barnes it'll give me the frame clearance I want ...and I can put a mild bend or two in the tie rod to get the diff cover clearance...

I'll have about 4 1/2" upper travel at the axle if I can keep the steering from being the limiting factor on the passenger side... That's with the vehicle high enough for 33's. add about another inch and an half if I bring it up enough for 35's down the road...

btw. Reaming the knuckles out isn't an issue, I have the right taper reamer, etc... nor is bending tubing, welding, etc...

Thanks again for thoughts / input...

 

Thanks! I've got the right taper reamer for the knuckles, and being as this is a home brewed vehicle that now sits on front leaf springs with no sway bars, The only steering clearance issue I have is the one we're talking about...

 

Pop each tire up on a hill to get the suspension at full extension then hold a pipe up where it'll sit and you'll have your answer. Longer bump stops or limit straps will keep the suspension from going too far.