Rear Brake Drums Very HOT
#11
06-05-2019, 11:48 AM
Me again, well I may have spoke to soon. The right drum still gets very hot. I tried to not use the brakes much and roll to a stop. Really hot, cannot put finger on drum.
Left is hot but can touch it without a burn.
So, something is dragging on the right . Ebrake is loose not pulling the cable.
Maybe the return spring is not working? I can pull the drum -easy not held by the shoes.
Can the auto adjuster get too tight? But then it does not appear to be too tight as in no contact with the drum.
I was thinking I would remove the auto adjust lever , set the adjuster manually and see what that does.
The other option is to get a new set of shoes and spring kit and replace the whole mess. I dont see how the shoes are the cause...unless they are out of round somehow.
I really hate the idea of taking this to a Dodge shop .. and pay big $$ to tell me what I should know.
It stops fine, I do not smell any brake burning. I get under the rear and no burnt smell. For it getting this hot you expect a smell of burnt lining?
When I got this back from the shop with the locked shoes -as posted in OP- I could not get it working , that is running cool.
During the trouble shoot phase, while applying high pressure to the brake pedal the front rusted brake line broke ( better at home then on the road) I had already replaced the line to the rear along with the frame to axle hose. Did that last year.
I replaced both the front line, bled air went on test drive all was well with the front.
Decided to replace the rear lines since I expected them to fail also. bled air from the cyl and test run felt Ok except for the hot drum issue.
Since I was removing the drums for the xx time, I decided to replace the wheel cyl with the Chev over sized cyl . The right OEM cyl appeared it might be leaky , so replacing both cyl sounded like a good idea.
After all this rebuild and now the drums replaced, I still have the same problem.
Since I lost all the fluid from the master cyl, the brake light came on, remained on after a refill, During the assorted test runs the ABS light came on, I was able to get it to turn off with a few hard stops to trigger the ABS. Seemed OK. All lights off
What I did NOT do is take the truck to a dealer to cycle the ABS system and do a power bleed. Could the ABS system be blocking the return of fluid from the rear cylinders? It appears the rear shoes do not retract after braking for a period of time and thus the shoe drags. However I cannot see this occurring when it jacked up off the ground, Apply the brakes, wheel stop let off brake wheel turn with no noticeable drag.
Crap this is a long post -apologize for the long rant. Hope I did bore you all. At a loss here.
RR
Left is hot but can touch it without a burn.
So, something is dragging on the right . Ebrake is loose not pulling the cable.
Maybe the return spring is not working? I can pull the drum -easy not held by the shoes.
Can the auto adjuster get too tight? But then it does not appear to be too tight as in no contact with the drum.
I was thinking I would remove the auto adjust lever , set the adjuster manually and see what that does.
The other option is to get a new set of shoes and spring kit and replace the whole mess. I dont see how the shoes are the cause...unless they are out of round somehow.
I really hate the idea of taking this to a Dodge shop .. and pay big $$ to tell me what I should know.
It stops fine, I do not smell any brake burning. I get under the rear and no burnt smell. For it getting this hot you expect a smell of burnt lining?
When I got this back from the shop with the locked shoes -as posted in OP- I could not get it working , that is running cool.
During the trouble shoot phase, while applying high pressure to the brake pedal the front rusted brake line broke ( better at home then on the road) I had already replaced the line to the rear along with the frame to axle hose. Did that last year.
I replaced both the front line, bled air went on test drive all was well with the front.
Decided to replace the rear lines since I expected them to fail also. bled air from the cyl and test run felt Ok except for the hot drum issue.
Since I was removing the drums for the xx time, I decided to replace the wheel cyl with the Chev over sized cyl . The right OEM cyl appeared it might be leaky , so replacing both cyl sounded like a good idea.
After all this rebuild and now the drums replaced, I still have the same problem.
Since I lost all the fluid from the master cyl, the brake light came on, remained on after a refill, During the assorted test runs the ABS light came on, I was able to get it to turn off with a few hard stops to trigger the ABS. Seemed OK. All lights off
What I did NOT do is take the truck to a dealer to cycle the ABS system and do a power bleed. Could the ABS system be blocking the return of fluid from the rear cylinders? It appears the rear shoes do not retract after braking for a period of time and thus the shoe drags. However I cannot see this occurring when it jacked up off the ground, Apply the brakes, wheel stop let off brake wheel turn with no noticeable drag.
Crap this is a long post -apologize for the long rant. Hope I did bore you all. At a loss here.
RR
#12
06-05-2019, 11:33 PM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Coker Creek TN
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Thats what I thought , except the right drum is super hot while the left is hot but I can touch it and not get burned.
I might back off on the right adjuster a turn or more. I have paint dots on the starr wheel, makes it easy to track the setting.
The other reason I think I might have problem, I can drive for 5 to 10 miles and not hit the brakes, pull off the road and roll to a stop with no braking, the right drum is still very hot.
Might go to the shop to get the ABS system cycled.
I might back off on the right adjuster a turn or more. I have paint dots on the starr wheel, makes it easy to track the setting.
The other reason I think I might have problem, I can drive for 5 to 10 miles and not hit the brakes, pull off the road and roll to a stop with no braking, the right drum is still very hot.
Might go to the shop to get the ABS system cycled.
#13
06-06-2019, 01:49 AM
Thats what I thought , except the right drum is super hot while the left is hot but I can touch it and not get burned.
I might back off on the right adjuster a turn or more. I have paint dots on the starr wheel, makes it easy to track the setting.
The other reason I think I might have problem, I can drive for 5 to 10 miles and not hit the brakes, pull off the road and roll to a stop with no braking, the right drum is still very hot.
Might go to the shop to get the ABS system cycled.
I might back off on the right adjuster a turn or more. I have paint dots on the starr wheel, makes it easy to track the setting.
The other reason I think I might have problem, I can drive for 5 to 10 miles and not hit the brakes, pull off the road and roll to a stop with no braking, the right drum is still very hot.
Might go to the shop to get the ABS system cycled.
#14
06-06-2019, 02:10 AM
Check the e-brake cable that it's not binding. I had trouble with passenger side cable on my Dodge, and Suburban. Both were super hard to balance the adjustment, and after a while balance was way off. Both had a bad cable on the passenger side, I think it's because that is so long compared to the left side. Zero problems after the cable swap.
#15
06-06-2019, 11:41 AM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Coker Creek TN
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OK I thought that may be an issue also. When I replaced the line from the Tee to the right wheel cyl, I had to make the connection at the tee really tight to stop a leak, might have crushed the feral on the tubing?
Easy to replace
So where is the FSM? to show me how to cycle/bleed the ABS ? I was told just do a few hard stops to activate the ABS unit, appeared to work. But then I read its really difficult to bleed the ABS unit of air and need to have the shop computer program to force cycle the ABS and then bleed the 4 wheel cyl.
Thanks
Easy to replace
So where is the FSM? to show me how to cycle/bleed the ABS ? I was told just do a few hard stops to activate the ABS unit, appeared to work. But then I read its really difficult to bleed the ABS unit of air and need to have the shop computer program to force cycle the ABS and then bleed the 4 wheel cyl.
Thanks
Last edited by vmaxept; 06-06-2019 at 11:51 AM. Reason: spelling
#16
06-06-2019, 11:49 AM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Coker Creek TN
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I have the Ebrake cable hanging loose , I looked at the rear shoes on both wheels then had wife pull the cable one at a time, appears to be working not hanging up or dragging.
But the left-right balance might be an issue when I try to adjust the cable to get the Ebrake working. There is only one adjustment in the center of the yolk - sure cannot adjust the each cable , I can see how the long cable to the right might not be adjusted the same as the left short cable.
But the left-right balance might be an issue when I try to adjust the cable to get the Ebrake working. There is only one adjustment in the center of the yolk - sure cannot adjust the each cable , I can see how the long cable to the right might not be adjusted the same as the left short cable.
#18
06-18-2019, 02:38 PM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Coker Creek TN
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Back again. I removed the right rear brake line, the new one I thought might be a problem.
Blew it out Not sure there was dirt in it. Furels on the end of the line look OK. Put it back. Got a nice flow from the end at the wheel cyl, connected to the cly. Bled it, nice flow.
Went to the shop, had the ABS cycled with his computer etc. Ran loads of tests all good.
Feels like it brakes better.
After a run I rolled to a stop, drums still hot, way hot. But no brake shoe burn smell.
Dont know gang. It works ie stops great. About all I have not done is replace the shoes the shop put on , they look good .
Maybe the return spring under the wheel cyl?
I backed off the brake adjuster on both wheels. Not sure it made any difference.
The auto adjusters work as they should, I set the the star wheel with the paint dot visible then go for a short drive with backup/stop cycles. The adjusters have moved -turned past the paint dot.
Can they turn too far? I dont think so. The auto action does its thing until the back shoe does not come out far enough to lift the adjuster plate and turn the star wheel.
I jack the rear off the ground and both wheels turn freely by hand, cannot hear any drag.
I am too the point where I just might let it be and drive it.
Blew it out Not sure there was dirt in it. Furels on the end of the line look OK. Put it back. Got a nice flow from the end at the wheel cyl, connected to the cly. Bled it, nice flow.
Went to the shop, had the ABS cycled with his computer etc. Ran loads of tests all good.
Feels like it brakes better.
After a run I rolled to a stop, drums still hot, way hot. But no brake shoe burn smell.
Dont know gang. It works ie stops great. About all I have not done is replace the shoes the shop put on , they look good .
Maybe the return spring under the wheel cyl?
I backed off the brake adjuster on both wheels. Not sure it made any difference.
The auto adjusters work as they should, I set the the star wheel with the paint dot visible then go for a short drive with backup/stop cycles. The adjusters have moved -turned past the paint dot.
Can they turn too far? I dont think so. The auto action does its thing until the back shoe does not come out far enough to lift the adjuster plate and turn the star wheel.
I jack the rear off the ground and both wheels turn freely by hand, cannot hear any drag.
I am too the point where I just might let it be and drive it.
#19
06-18-2019, 06:11 PM
Back again. I removed the right rear brake line, the new one I thought might be a problem.
Blew it out Not sure there was dirt in it. Furels on the end of the line look OK. Put it back. Got a nice flow from the end at the wheel cyl, connected to the cly. Bled it, nice flow.
Went to the shop, had the ABS cycled with his computer etc. Ran loads of tests all good.
Feels like it brakes better.
After a run I rolled to a stop, drums still hot, way hot. But no brake shoe burn smell.
Dont know gang. It works ie stops great. About all I have not done is replace the shoes the shop put on , they look good .
Maybe the return spring under the wheel cyl?
I backed off the brake adjuster on both wheels. Not sure it made any difference.
The auto adjusters work as they should, I set the the star wheel with the paint dot visible then go for a short drive with backup/stop cycles. The adjusters have moved -turned past the paint dot.
Can they turn too far? I dont think so. The auto action does its thing until the back shoe does not come out far enough to lift the adjuster plate and turn the star wheel.
I jack the rear off the ground and both wheels turn freely by hand, cannot hear any drag.
I am too the point where I just might let it be and drive it.
Blew it out Not sure there was dirt in it. Furels on the end of the line look OK. Put it back. Got a nice flow from the end at the wheel cyl, connected to the cly. Bled it, nice flow.
Went to the shop, had the ABS cycled with his computer etc. Ran loads of tests all good.
Feels like it brakes better.
After a run I rolled to a stop, drums still hot, way hot. But no brake shoe burn smell.
Dont know gang. It works ie stops great. About all I have not done is replace the shoes the shop put on , they look good .
Maybe the return spring under the wheel cyl?
I backed off the brake adjuster on both wheels. Not sure it made any difference.
The auto adjusters work as they should, I set the the star wheel with the paint dot visible then go for a short drive with backup/stop cycles. The adjusters have moved -turned past the paint dot.
Can they turn too far? I dont think so. The auto action does its thing until the back shoe does not come out far enough to lift the adjuster plate and turn the star wheel.
I jack the rear off the ground and both wheels turn freely by hand, cannot hear any drag.
I am too the point where I just might let it be and drive it.
