The taper is different on the older tie rod where it goes into the newer steering knuckles. Also sway bar from a newer 2nd gen will need to be used due to how the end links attach. Brake lines at the calipers is slightly different but probably would have worked but I through on newer brake lines as well.

Had not discovered the driveshaft fitment yet. Goody more surprises! I love surprises.

Any ideas on the best way to deal with the u-joint problem? Is there a u joint that will work? Do I need a front drive shaft from a newer truck?

 

I was assuming you would upgrade the to the new steering setup. Sway bar I knew also but I run without sway bars. Brake lines will work they are basically the same. Might be able to find a reducer u joint (I forget the name) but I would just use the whole front driveshaft if it was me.

 

Thanks bro. Probably pick up a new shaft off Rock Auto. Yeah I did end up using the new steering once I realized my stock one wasn't going to work.

 

Sounds like things are coming together to suit you.

couple thoughts as I read through things... The steering taper is just a little larger on the newer knuckles right, but the same taper? If so, might be worthwhile to do aftermarket inverted T front steering setup from someone like Barnes and ream the knuckles out a little further if needed. I've had really good results with this on a couple vehicles... also, I'm really happy with the large piston 1998 8800 grvw version brakes on my pig of a van with all steel braided lines... There's nothing wrong with a dana 60 on the front of that truck...

re your ujoints, no reason to get a different drive shaft, just measure and get bastard u-joints (two different spans and diameters on caps made just for conversions like yours...). very common and not expensive to order...

I'm guessing you're nowhere near eastern NC, I probably could have given you the swaybar you're going to need if you run one and can't rig yours up to work...

 

My trucks at my buddys shop , who has the lift, and I haven't even had the chance yet to verify whether there is a front u joint fitment problem or not cause he already went home when i stopped by after work tonight.

I did pop onto RockAuto database tonight and the difference at the diff yoke, for my year, the '95, the autos got the 7290 ujoints with the 1-1/8" caps and the manuals got the 1330's with 1-1/16" caps BUT, and here is the weird part since I almost never get lucky, it sure looks like all versions of the 01's use the 1330's. just maybe

Thanks For the good idea. With the bastard u-joint but maybe I wont need it. I was thinking about taking the shaft and having it modified. I've done that before too. Not really all that expensive but I like the fancy u joint idea even better. Good to have an ace in the hole.

Very generous of you to offer up your sway bar. But I have been kind of geeking out and blowing a big wad on some aftermarket goodies to bolt on. That is part of my problem why this swap swap taking so long. My heimed T-steering stuff is supposedly in the machine shop now. sigh like a one month lead time supposedly...tick tock tick tock...The torsion sway bar I ordered back in March still has an unknown ship date.

I am sure sick of driving my stupid little camry all the time.

 

You're going heim joints on the street? since they don't have boots on them, they typically wear out much faster than tie rod ends and so are usually only used on dedicated trail rigs... I usually go with gm 1 ton tre set ups for street / daily driver use.. that's what I would have done anyhow for longevity sake... Hope your upgrades come together well for you!

We'll look forward to seeing how you like it.

 

Hi Tim.

Well, the sales guy actually talked me out of the boots they sell for the heims saying if I just spray them with oil, periodically, when I lube the rest of the suspension they'll last forever. He also said they have never heard of a field unit failing and if it does they'll replace it. We'll see. I have an extra set of steering knuckles so if I can switch back to a mopar unit if I end up not liking it. ie this kit requires drilling out the knuckles and Pittman arm.

As I said geeking out a bit. Telling myself the tradeoff of the slight headache of the heims will be worth it. Since with this "drill out" version of the sterring kit I think I may be able to swap the tie rod up to mount to the top side of the steering knuckles, moving it up out of harms way a bit, and that should also reduce the angle of the drag link by a tiny amount.

best regards

 

Have you actually weighed your truck with the camper, full tank of gas, and all the gear you take? I get mine weighed empty and loaded at the landscape supply and scrap metal dealer when I'm buying bulk materials and selling off my scrap metal. I'm sure they'd weigh your rig loaded for you for free, just go by when they're not busy. If you are at 8800 or under, you're legally compliant and you don't have to worry about that part.

Just FYI... I'm in PA. I found out this year when I registered my new to me, out of state 04 2500, that to register that truck above a 1/2 ton rating I had to have a mechanic sign off on the weight. All the mechanic is going "certify" is the rating printed out on your door sticker. Which, by the way, has a couple hundred *less* gross rating than the 2nd gen.

In a legal battle... I would think that any argument about increasing your factory rated capacity would be moot w/o the sign off of an automotive domain engineer with a professional certification. That would take some effort to find one that is willing to try to rate an old truck with potential steel stress issues from age and corrosion. If you did find one, it'd probably cost you a pile of $ to have them perform the analysis before they put their azz on the line.

If you are just a little over 8800, I'd look at removing weight to get compliant. Removing stuff you don't need out of the truck, replacing your tire/wheels with lighter ones, leaving the spare tire at home, re-evaluate the gear your take with, etc... If you can't get compliant, consider selling your insert for a lighter one (like you mentioned), or converting to a towable RV that fits within your GCWR rating.

Good luck!

 

Yeah I really need to have it weighed.

I definitely agree with about all you said regarding trimming weight if I find myself near or over the limit.

I've seen lots of talk, on RV forums, about how the only differences, among some domestic oems, between the one ton srw and the 3/4 ton pickups is the list of parts bolted to identical chassis. Of course most of them, on those forums, are driving Fords.

But since the dudes on this forum seem to be freakishly knowledgeable about all things Dodge, and I am definitely not, it couldn't hurt to at least ask and get educated.

If it did turn out, I found out the only difference was bolt on parts, and I bolted on all those parts, I may not have the engineers stamp but I bet it gets tougher for making the argument I'm knowingly being negligent at that point.

This all came up as I was considering adding an auxiliary fuel tank and started adding up all my weights.

My camper door emblem claims it is 2750 lbs dry. It is fairly well known the dirty little secret in the RV industry around that time was to quote the dry weight with no options such as my almost 500lb AC on the roof and my 2700 watt onan microlite gen set, up sized batteries etc etc. I figure that thing is pushing well over 3500lbs, all loaded up and ready to camp, easy.

I don't know what my truck weighs stock but after recently having to lift my new second hand d60 front axle into my bed with one other guy I can tell you the parts Dodge chose to use are not light. I just have been estimating near 5500lbs or so for my truck.

You can see where my concern about the numbers not working comes from.

 

They can probably axle you out too.
A 500 pounds roof a/c? I've never weighed one but I've replaced a couple through the years. Yes, they are heavy, but I'm not that strong. I'd find a truck stop somewhere and weigh your rig loaded.