A/C, Tran temp and Shift light always on
#1
A/C, Tran temp and Shift light always on
Truck is not used regularly so we have time to play. Got a weird problem and the only information code I get is "possible faulty PCM,"
The A/C is always on and I have pulled the relay as I suspect it is not taking any notice of the High Pressure sensor. Clutch is good as I can hot-wire to click in and out.
The Trans Temp light is always on as is the Shift override button light -- and shift override button does nothing when driving.
Cruise control is also not working.
So, I bought a used PCM (online auction) and the "Check Engine" light does not even come on at ignition-on and no start, so sending it back. Seller finally said they do not test them but have free returns. {sigh}
Rather than play that game again I checked Parts stores and Rock all seem to have Cardone for around $300. Some research shows about even love/hate opinions of them. Some say that Cardone re-solder joints, replace parts etc. Others say they just test the returned cores and send them out again with the "rebuilt" sticker.
Being VERY familiar with Electronics I pulled my old one open. A single poured and set block of Silicone about 1-1/2" thick, with two loose elctro-caps. Not solder loose that I can see yet, but they seem to have been hot and softened the goop around them.
But now, how does Cardone get into these things?
I am thinking of grinding the back off to get at the underside of the PCB and replace the 2 visually errant caps. IF the values can still be read from the can.
Anyone with a Cardone PCM ever looked inside?
The truck is barely worth $300 as it is, but we use to to haul stuff short distances so would like the A/C and cruise back at least.
Low cost helpful thoughts and suggestions?
The A/C is always on and I have pulled the relay as I suspect it is not taking any notice of the High Pressure sensor. Clutch is good as I can hot-wire to click in and out.
The Trans Temp light is always on as is the Shift override button light -- and shift override button does nothing when driving.
Cruise control is also not working.
So, I bought a used PCM (online auction) and the "Check Engine" light does not even come on at ignition-on and no start, so sending it back. Seller finally said they do not test them but have free returns. {sigh}
Rather than play that game again I checked Parts stores and Rock all seem to have Cardone for around $300. Some research shows about even love/hate opinions of them. Some say that Cardone re-solder joints, replace parts etc. Others say they just test the returned cores and send them out again with the "rebuilt" sticker.
Being VERY familiar with Electronics I pulled my old one open. A single poured and set block of Silicone about 1-1/2" thick, with two loose elctro-caps. Not solder loose that I can see yet, but they seem to have been hot and softened the goop around them.
But now, how does Cardone get into these things?
I am thinking of grinding the back off to get at the underside of the PCB and replace the 2 visually errant caps. IF the values can still be read from the can.
Anyone with a Cardone PCM ever looked inside?
The truck is barely worth $300 as it is, but we use to to haul stuff short distances so would like the A/C and cruise back at least.
Low cost helpful thoughts and suggestions?
#3
#4
There are better places to get them. I don't remember the name though. Someone will hopefully. These guys are supposed to be able to program the 94-95 PCM.
http://www.bgperformance.com/?fbclid..._C5cAJt5FEdVJc
I don't know if they repair them though.
http://www.bgperformance.com/?fbclid..._C5cAJt5FEdVJc
I don't know if they repair them though.
#5
OK, thanks, that's a start. It looks to be a temperature thing. We had to haul some stuff yesterday and it worked perfectly in 36-F outside air-temp. Might try mounting a fan on it for next Summer.
#6
#7
Just another light to ignore in an old truck.
Next time it is on the lift I will look, but rather not crawl around in the dirt.
Thinking about it though, the light is in stupid place. When driving I have to lean around and look behind the steering wheel. It might be better to have "Trans TOAST" instead of "Trans Temp" as it would be, by the time it mattered. LOL