How to build 5.2 for torque? Worth it?
I would’ve searched this but the site won’t let me use “5.2” as a keyword. I have a 5.2 engine from a 99 ram with only like 90k on it and I’m looking to build it a little bit and put it into my 2001 mud truck (has weak old 5.2). I just want to build it to get a little more power in the mud and move my big tires easier. I’m not looking to race this thing and it’ll probably never get over 80 mph so it seems as if I’m building for a different reason than most people build 5.2s for. Anyway, I’m just looking for some advice to improve low end torque. I don’t have any experience building engines but I do all of my work myself so I’m somewhat mechanically inclined. The only “mod” the engine has so far is the hughes plenum gasket kit.
I don’t want to spend too much since it is an old engine. I guess my budget it something like $2000 for parts. Who knows maybe a little more just depends how things go. I’m wondering if this is even worth it though, would it make more sense money wise to do a full swap to a hemi or 5.9? I’m mainly looking to build this engine since I already have it and know it’s reliable and has no current issues. Opinions?
I don’t want to spend too much since it is an old engine. I guess my budget it something like $2000 for parts. Who knows maybe a little more just depends how things go. I’m wondering if this is even worth it though, would it make more sense money wise to do a full swap to a hemi or 5.9? I’m mainly looking to build this engine since I already have it and know it’s reliable and has no current issues. Opinions?
Considered "torque-y", the 5.2 produced 300 lb-ft at the crank in its most powerful version before being axed. The 5.9 had 10% more at 330. Dodge designed these to have low end torque and it's very noticeable versus other engines. The best and cheapest thing to do is swap in a 5.9 for that instant 10%. I know nothing about building engines but have read that the stock keg is good for torque while other manifolds are good for HP (higher RPM). Some "mods" are only designed to create higher HP so check what each will deliver.
And swapping in a HEMI is way too much work on these trucks for your budget. Plus it will grenade the lifters, cam, and blow exhaust manifolds.
And swapping in a HEMI is way too much work on these trucks for your budget. Plus it will grenade the lifters, cam, and blow exhaust manifolds.
Considered "torque-y", the 5.2 produced 300 lb-ft at the crank in its most powerful version before being axed. The 5.9 had 10% more at 330. Dodge designed these to have low end torque and it's very noticeable versus other engines. The best and cheapest thing to do is swap in a 5.9 for that instant 10%. I know nothing about building engines but have read that the stock keg is good for torque while other manifolds are good for HP (higher RPM). Some "mods" are only designed to create higher HP so check what each will deliver.
And swapping in a HEMI is way too much work on these trucks for your budget. Plus it will grenade the lifters, cam, and blow exhaust manifolds.
And swapping in a HEMI is way too much work on these trucks for your budget. Plus it will grenade the lifters, cam, and blow exhaust manifolds.
Find a good 360 think of it as a bored, stroked 318. Whatever you want to do to the 318 do to the 360. Maybe a slightly bigger cam, shorty headers, 1.7 ratio rockers with the stock cam work good from what I have heard. If it's in your budget EQ monster Magnum heads, or just the regular EQ heads, they flow better than the stock magnum heads, and have a thicker casting, the stock ones are known to crack. Monster Magnum heads come with 2.02 intake valves. I heard you get better torque with the smaller valves. Freshen the 360 before you install it. Gaskets, seals, timing chain and gears double roller, oil pump-oem pump, no need for a high volume, or a high pressure pump on a stock build. Check the bearings main and rod bearings while the pan is off. They are cheap if they need replacing and easy to do on an engine stand. You can use plumber's Emory cloth to clean the crank, mic. It to make sure it's not out of round. Entirely up to you if you want to re-ring it. Doing as much as you can on your own will save you money. I had a 360 Magnum block decked (.040) bored .020 over, honed (45*cross hatch) cam bearings installed, Pistons, rings, bearings, everything hot tanked, crankshaft polished, Pistons installed on the rods for about $700 at the machine shop. Best thing to do, is tear it down, and then order parts.
Last edited by rebeltaz83; Dec 6, 2019 at 01:51 PM.








