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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Thanks for reading..OK lots of fuel & spark , Timing small dots lined ☝ It well run totally redarded then advance distributor..My question is with camshaft gear at 12 o'clock and crankshaft at 6 o'clock (after spinning engine) the rotor is at # 1 ?? I thought it should be at # 6 could the cam have turned 180% with old sloppy chain and can I pull distributor and have rotor position at # 6 TDC. THE OLD MAN DOWN THE ROAD....
The crank turns twice to one turn of the cam. If the crank is at 6 o'clock (pointed down)and the cam at 12 (straight up) you are off a 1/4 turn. If you turn the crank a 1/2 turn to get the mark on top (12 o'clock) the cam will move half as much and only be at 3 o'clock .
The crank can never be at 6 o'clock when the cam is at 12 o'clock. The crank should be at 12 o'clock when the cam is at 12 o'clock and also when the cam is at 6 o'clock.
Cam 6 o'clock. Crank 12 0' clock. Old Chain was in b a d shape. When in this postion rotor at #1. If I turn over engine so cam is at 12 0'clock. Crankshaft is at 12 0' Clock rotlor is at # 6.. HARD TO SEE. DOTS ON GEARS I PUT WHITE CHALK TO TRY TO SHOW!! CAM-6. CRANKSHAFT - 12. THANKS
Yep, and the distributor rotor should be point at number 6, with the dots aligned that way. Don't really need the straight edge, you are limited in how far off you can be by the chain in any event. (another reason I prefer the double roller timing sets.)
Using a straight edge is a double check I've done for 50+ years. There are a lot of things I do that I don't really NEED to do but do just to make sure. Like drilling a 1/64 hole in thermostat units if they don't have a jiggle valve. 99.9% of the time, it's not needed. They usually don't take long and that 0.01 % of the time I catch a mistake before I button everything up.
Using a straight edge is a double check I've done for 50+ years. There are a lot of things I do that I don't really NEED to do but do just to make sure. Like drilling a 1/64 hole in thermostat units if they don't have a jiggle valve. 99.9% of the time, it's not needed. They usually don't take long and that 0.01 % of the time I catch a mistake before I button everything up.
I see absolutely nothing wrong with being thorough.
With the dots at 6 (Cam) and 12 (crank) #6 cylinder is actually in firing position. So it seems your timing is set correctly. What are you not getting? Spark or fuel?
Originally Posted by HeyYou
When BOTH are at 12 o'clock, #1 is in firing position. Did I type it wrong previously? (goes to look, nope. I typed it right. )
Originally Posted by Dan12
Cam 6 o'clock. Crank 12 0' clock. Old Chain was in b a d shape. When in this postion rotor at #1. If I turn over engine so cam is at 12 0'clock. Crankshaft is at 12 0' Clock rotlor is at # 6.. HARD TO SEE. DOTS ON GEARS I PUT WHITE CHALK TO TRY TO SHOW!! CAM-6. CRANKSHAFT - 12. THANKS
I believe you're a half turn off. Take the timing chain off, use the gear to spin the cam 1/2 a turn, reinstall the timing chain. Use the timing marks on the balancer to be at 0 degrees with the distributor on #1. There is a notch on the distributor housing that needs to line up with the rotor. This will get the fuel sync close enough to run. You'll need a good scanner to set fuel sync once it's running, or take it to a shop. There is a picture of the notch in the distributor somewhere on here. If I can find it, I'll post it.
I'm not sure if any of the valves will hit when you do that. If it stops, don't force it. You may have to loosen all of the rocker arms. Any of you other guys know?
I'm not sure if any of the valves will hit when you do that. If it stops, don't force it. You may have to loosen all of the rocker arms. Any of you other guys know?
I think the first gen Magnums are NOT interference engines. (3.9, 5.2, 5.9) The second gen Magnums ARE interference engines.