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95 Ram 1500 Rear Driveshaft u Joint blowout repercussions

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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 07:07 PM
  #91  
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To my understanding, and judging by the pictures, you can remove the crush sleeve just by removing the yoke, seal, and outer bearing. Outer bearing does not have press fit, it should slide out, and crush sleeve fits through the bearing race.
Also, on a 9.25 rear end, you can replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer and shims. P/n USA55048 at Rockauto.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by HeikIlm
To my understanding, and judging by the pictures, you can remove the crush sleeve just by removing the yoke, seal, and outer bearing. Outer bearing does not have press fit, it should slide out, and crush sleeve fits through the bearing race.
Also, on a 9.25 rear end, you can replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer and shims. P/n USA55048 at Rockauto.
You can replace the crush sleeve altogether but every video I have seen shows them pulling the pinion
 
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 02:12 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by HeikIlm
To my understanding, and judging by the pictures, you can remove the crush sleeve just by removing the yoke, seal, and outer bearing. Outer bearing does not have press fit, it should slide out, and crush sleeve fits through the bearing race.
Also, on a 9.25 rear end, you can replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer and shims. P/n USA55048 at Rockauto.
That would be seriously awesome if could do this without pulling the diff apart ! Using the solid spacer and shims seems like it might be tricky to get set up right. I presume upon reassembly I would Torque the pinion nut to 210# then retest the rotational torque. Since when I initially did the test I had the wheels on (raised of course) I would repeat that in order to get to the same inch pounds number I had before, which was 135, then I add 5 more for the new seal, which should be 140" lbs.This should give me the same preload as I had before. I suppose replacing the outer bearing would be simple, if its damaged.

Interestingly it hasnt made any noise in the last couple of days. Ive just been running it to work and back, about 5 miles each way.

I will see what the parts store will charge for a new crush sleeve, seal and outer bearing.

I can get another axle assembly from the pull n pay for $100. So if repairing it looks like it will cost more I will definitely opt to go that route. I dont think pulling one would be too hard, especially with new impact I got ! Just need to bring a buddy to help me load it. Obviously it would be more ideal to just swap out the damaged gear in my current rig
 
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 02:23 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by mtntrogger
That would be seriously awesome if could do this without pulling the diff apart ! Using the solid spacer and shims seems like it might be tricky to get set up right. I presume upon reassembly I would Torque the pinion nut to 210# then retest the rotational torque. Since when I initially did the test I had the wheels on (raised of course) I would repeat that in order to get to the same inch pounds number I had before, which was 135, then I add 5 more for the new seal, which should be 140" lbs.This should give me the same preload as I had before. I suppose replacing the outer bearing would be simple, if its damaged.

Interestingly it hasnt made any noise in the last couple of days. Ive just been running it to work and back, about 5 miles each way.

I will see what the parts store will charge for a new crush sleeve, seal and outer bearing.

I can get another axle assembly from the pull n pay for $100. So if repairing it looks like it will cost more I will definitely opt to go that route. I dont think pulling one would be too hard, especially with new impact I got ! Just need to bring a buddy to help me load it. Obviously it would be more ideal to just swap out the damaged gear in my current rig
Read the FSM as it startes a new number, for the rotational torque, with me bearings. How you would do it is tighten the nut slowly just to take the slip out. Then SLOWLY tightened the nut until you reach the rotational torque in the FSM
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 02:23 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Read the FSM as it startes a new number, for the rotational torque, with me bearings. How you would do it is tighten the nut slowly just to take the slip out. Then SLOWLY tightened the nut until you reach the rotational torque in the FSM
Got it. Thanks again sir. At the moment Im holding off on jumping back in there. Everything seems fine. No noise or anything. Maybe I didnt mess it up as bad as I thought ? Didnt you post that you have always just tightened the pinion nut as tight as you could when doing this job? If you have done this before and didnt end up with any other issues, perhaps I may be as lucky as you were ??
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 02:25 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by mtntrogger
Got it. Thanks again sir. At the moment Im holding off on jumping back in there. Everything seems fine. No noise or anything. Maybe I didnt mess it up as bad as I thought ? Didnt you post that you have always just tightened the pinion nut as tight as you could when doing this job? If you have done this before and didnt end up with any other issues, perhaps I may be as lucky as you were ??
Oh yeah brother lol. I just used an impact and ran the nut on. I never experienced any issues
 
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 02:11 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Oh yeah brother lol. I just used an impact and ran the nut on. I never experienced any issues
Tah !!! Thanks for all your help with this man. Im gonna keep on keeping on for now. If anything starts to seem wonky I will re evaluate.
Best Regards Yall ! I love this forum
 
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mtntrogger
Tah !!! Thanks for all your help with this man. Im gonna keep on keeping on for now. If anything starts to seem wonky I will re evaluate.
Best Regards Yall ! I love this forum
At least you are prepared for the worst and thats all you can do
 
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