It seemed more intermittent today. Unfortunately I dont believe I have the FSM. I will dig around on the different computers I may have used to check, but I may need a link. Im thinking about pulling the driveshaft off the yolk so I can retest the torque on that nut. Its disconcerting that although I hadnt achieved even 150# on the torque wrench that more threads where exposed than when I took it off. How could the nut not be on as tight as before yet have more threads exposed ? Not sure when Id have a chance to tear back into it (which Im really not feeling right now, since I just got moving again) as it has been snowing all day and is supposed to continue tomorrow also.

 

You can download the FSM from the FAQ section here. As long as it had the same inch torque plus 5 in tq you should be good

 

Thanks man. So I dont think I even got it torqued to the 210#. My big torque wrench only goes to 150#,which is what I had it set at and it hadnt clicked yet. BUT the inch pounds setting was initially taken at 135. I could not get the pinion to turn, even at 150 inch pounds after I re installed !?

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you didn't want 250ft lbs on the nut. You wanted to get 140in lbs (135 + 5) that was your goal. If it wouldn't even spin at 150in lbs. Then you tightened it to tight and messed up the bearing preload. Which means you crushed the crush sleeve to far. Only way to fix it is replace the crush sleeve which requires pulling the seal and talking the bearing out.

 

Will that require a special tool to get the bearing out ? Or will it slide off the pinion shaft ?

 

I believe the once you pull the yolk, seal the bearing will come out. Then you have to side hammer the race and the crush sleeve should come out. Unless they did it like the 3rd gens where the crush sleeve goes after the bearing. I'll have to look in the FSM when I get home and give you a definitely answer.

 

Please and thank you sir.

I dont currently own a slide hammer, but I dont think they are too expensive, especially compared to to a $270 Impact wrench. As long as I dont need any other special tools I will probably attempt this. It seems like the reinstall could be a bit technical, with that whole bearing preload thing. Im hoping yall can walk me through it. Thanks again Hey You and moparfanatic !

 

Pinion does have to be pulled to get to the crush sleeve out, according to the diagram that I have attached. Which means new bearings to. Sorry man

 

So I would basically just need to pull the yoke back off, remove the seal...then it looks like the bearing fits into a "cup" which im guessing is the race, then the crush collar is behind the bearing. I am curious how difficult it will be to get the bearing out ? I ve read it can be done with a couple of pick tools ?
I would presume IF I manage to get the crush sleeve out, that getting the new one to 'crush' when reinstalling I can just use the impact gun gently til the crush starts then switch to the torque wrench. Do you think I will need to mess with the race or replace that outer bearing ?

 

Reread my post I edited it. I'm not sure if you would be able to get to the crush sleeve from the rear. I do know for a fact the front bearing (what they are calling the rear bearing) the pinion has to come out. The FSM doesn't have a section for replacing the crush sleeve. Just saying if you over torque the nut, torque it back it off and torque it, or don't get the same rational torque plus 5in lbs the crush sleeve will need to be replaced