same thing I thought, figured had it out, it's under warranty, why not swap it back out. it definately isn't the switch. Only thing left now is to change the damn pump, and not looking forward to do that..

I also noticed, RPM's at 700 seem to be almost fine, no oil light, however when I put it in drive or sitting at a light, RPM's only sit at 600. just a tiny bit off.. ugggg..

thanks again for the advice, always willing to listen to more and anything else to test prior to pulling the pan to get the pump..

 

Hey you, what would the pressure relief valve on the pump have to do w/ it? you mentioned it, and not sure why? thinking you may have confuse this w/ the plug in the oil galley we were discussing up above. anyhoo, just wondering.

 

Supposedly, the pressure relief valve keeps the pump from putting out too much pressure. There is a calibrated spring in there, that when pressure pushes it back far enough, oil bypasses the galleries, and gets dumped back into the pan. If it sticks open, has a weak spring, or something similar, it will bypass more oil than it should, and you end up with low pressure. On the flip side, if it sticks SHUT, you get full pump pressure to the motor, which is around 1800-3000 PSI..... FAR more than the oil filter can handle. (it turns perfectly spherical, and then pops.... don't ask how I know that. I think I still have one of those layin' about.)

Put a high volume pump in it. See if that doesn't improve it's attitude. Also, while you have the pan off, may not hurt to plastigage some of the rod/main bearings, and see what your clearances look like.