I’m not new here, but attempting to reset my password on my old account was a losing battle. I have a 99 1500 with the 3.92 limited slip rear end and although it has been working flawlessly, I’d like to keep it that way. I like to abuse my truck on the regular and was curious if there was any way to beef up the factory lsd prior to having issues with it? I’ve heard that the main culprit is the snap ring, wondering if I can cut the groove deeper and/or wider (I’m a machinist with over a decade experience, so cutting metal is kinda my thing) to utilize a tougher snap ring? Also while I’ve got it out and apart, is there any options for factory replacement clutches for the LSD as well? I tried using the search function using 12 different search terms, but never found quite what I was looking for. Rebuilding my overdrive unit next weekend, figure the LSD is the next thing on my list to tackle to keep the old girl ticking like a Swiss watch. Thanks for any input.

 

There are rebuild kits out there for them, a lotta folks offer them. Summit, Jegs, probably your local parts stores as well. Not snap rings though, they are 'clips', I have not had the pleasure of close inspection on one though, so, not sure if there is anything you can do to make them more reliable.... aside from replace it with something better. Of course, that is a significantly more expensive proposition.

 

I'm thinking I'll grab one from a junkyard truck and see what it looks like up close, use it as my rebuild unit. Curious if the clips could be changed with something beefier. If they were snap rings, cutting a bigger, deeper groove, and running a larger snap ring would be a cake walk, as long as the unit being cut wasn't case hardened or something... but I guess I'll need to pick one up and see, maybe I can be the trailblazer of making a more reliable cheap LSD...

 

So here’s a very in depth video of rebuilding the LSD on a 9.25” dodge rear end, albeit a 4th gen truck. At 13:52 he pulls the clips that I believe holds the axles first the center carrier... are those the clips that shear off causing issues with the LSD?

 

That clip just holds the axles in. That is why the 9.25 Chrysler is a weak rear end. They clip is the only thing stopping your wheel from coming off. The clip you want is a U clip that is what falls when the clutches wear down

 

That’s what I thought, those clips hold the axles in, so this video doesn’t show disassembly of the actual limited slip itself, he just removes it and replaces with an aftermarket one.

 

The 9.25 is pretty decent. The clutch plates in a Trac Lock are all steel and the Belleville spring takes some decent pressure to compress enough to install the spider gears. It would be really hard to wear the clutch enough to lose the C-clip, take apart a high mileage example and prove it to yourself, never mind what the parrots say. Unlike a retained axle like a Mopar 8.75 the center pin keeps the axle from riding in, a job the 8.75 bearing/retainer has to do. The breakaway can be measured before disassembly, worn clutch pack replaced. I doubt the problem is with the C-clip, but loss of an axle into the borrow pit if it fails near the splines, the smallest part of a thick length of steel. The shim behind the spider gears is steel not brass, another plus. The crush collar can be replaced with shims, billet caps added, as the pinion clearance can increase as the pinion tries to 'climb' the ring gear. Folks cut and respline axles all the time, the steel can be worked. Nice after market limited slip center sections are available, from Eaton no less.
31 spline axles, stout pinion, you'd need a 3/4 ton diff to get any better. My only problem with it is an overload/abuse longevity issue, the axle bearing rides directly on the axle, not a race. If you think you might be about to abuse a 9.25 into the ground, then I would suggest you trade that 1500 for a 2500. Flip the shackles and put softer springs up front if the ride is too old school for you. Compare transmissions and transfer cases as well. A D60/D70 combo would be a whole lot tougher to kill than a D44/9.25

 

So you’re saying I’m worrying about something that is hundreds of thousands of miles away from being an issue? My truck is only at 127k haha. My last Ram was a 96 2500 with 5.9 magnum and a 4” lift (same engine in my current 99 1500) and it hit 240k before I sold it, had only had the OD unit rebuilt prior to that. I do a fair bit of off-roading (mild rock crawling and low speed mud slinging) I just want to be sure it never leaves me stranded due to neglected/overdue maintenance.

 

I'm saying you are starting out with about as good a half ton rear end as can be easily had. If you make lots of power, with large diameter tires, and abuse it heavily you will find out exactly where the weakest part is. Under heavy load the ring gear tries to leave out the back, pinion tries to leave out the front, axle wants to twist off. Anything can be broken. I'm also saying the limited slip will stop being a limited slip before you whittle the clutch plates down enough for the C-clip to fall into the mixer and the whole package can be modified for durability.
If you are really worried a bomb proof limited slip Dana60 with plenty of meat under the bearing caps can be spec'd or built in any flange width, any perch width, and a yoke/flange you can make work with your (maybe modified) driveshaft. You are a machinist, you have access to tools most don't, and you can probably weld, get busy. By the way, if you move the mounting flange inboard about 7/16", it looks to me like a person could put (early?) 9.25 Gen3 rear discs on a 9.25 Gen2. Measure them up and see if you agree. Also, Gen3 wheel studs are bigger diameter but the shoulder is the same, on the rear anyways, haven't checked the front. Bet dollars to doughnuts they are the same. Can be pressed into the axle, maybe that will open up rim selection for you.