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Dead PCM?

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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:23 AM
  #121  
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Found a pcm in a yard from same year and engine and trans but it doesn’t have 4x4

the part number matches though. Think it will work?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
How can there be power on a wire that isn't hooked to anything? That's REALLY weird.
the negative was unhooked but the positive was still hooked up.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:50 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
Found a pcm in a yard from same year and engine and trans but it doesn’t have 4x4

the part number matches though. Think it will work?
I believe it will the computer didn't care if it's 4wd or 2wd as their are no 4wd inputs to the computer
Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
the negative was unhooked but the positive was still hooked up.
That is strangely odd.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:59 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21

That is strangely odd.
What do you think that could possibly mean?

I’ll try it again in a few mins
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 10:01 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
What do you think that could possibly mean?

I’ll try it again in a few mins
Never used a two wire one I always used the one wire one with two different LEDs. If you are testing the ground hook it to the positive lead and see if it lights up. If it doesn't that's good, if it does that means the wire is sorted to ground (if everything is unplugged)
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 10:13 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Never used a two wire one I always used the one wire one with two different LEDs. If you are testing the ground hook it to the positive lead and see if it lights up. If it doesn't that's good, if it does that means the wire is sorted to ground (if everything is unplugged)
with both the posts of the battery hooked up or no or just one?

just tried again. Red light comes on if the negative is off but positive is on the battery. If I remove both negative and positive the light doesn’t come on

1: ok I just did this test from this crazy old Scotty Kilmer video and the light does not come on.


2 PCM unplugged, negative battery cable removed, tester clip on positive terminal (pos cable still on) and no light at brown white wire like it has before


now If I ONLY unhook the pcm cable that has the brown white wire but leave the other 2 connectors in the scanner gets power, but still fails to connect, the check engine light comes on but the fuel pump doesn’t prime

If I plug that pcm connector back in everything goes back to the way it was before, NO check engine light and fuel pump primes non stop

***so I went ahead and plugged the new PCM I got at the salvage yard in and BOOM the check engine light works and my scanner connects, shows no codes. And fuel pump primes for a few seconds like it should****

(I’m scared to try and turn it over though LoL

for the pins on my o2 sensor it was the green with orange stripe touching the black wire (I think )

 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; Aug 25, 2020 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 02:00 PM
  #127  
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UPDATE TIME!

ok so it now starts and idles but I’m getting code P1762 & P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor high

i thought maybe it was still stored in the pcm from previous truck so I cleared and now only P1763 comes up but it comes right back. Did my sensor in the transmission maybe fail?

ive never had this code before today.

i did the solenoid borg Warner kit upgrade only like 5,000 miles ago could it be dead already??

i read that a short in the downstream o2 sensor can cause this (which is where I had the jacked up pin) it’s currently unplugged so I’m thinking my issue is along those lines...

unplugges both my o2 sensors and set my multimeter to continuity (diode setting) as well as ohms and the green with orange stripe wire that has the bent pin beeps for continuity and has the .3 ohms showing so I don’t that wire is bad

i proceeded to test each color wire the brown and white wire shows no continuity so I used alligator clips and connected the pin from the brown white wire on the harness at the damaged connector to the brown white pin on the connector under the cowl (essentially making a jumper) then my multimeter was able to get a continuity reading from the jumper cable...

so that means the brown white wire coming from my downstream o2 harness plug is damaged somewhere between the plug by the tranny and the plug under the cowl...

doo dee doo dee doo...
2 coffees and a tuna sandwich later...

I proceeded to use the $25 cable tracer I bought from harbor freight to find the break in the wire (this woulda been a nice tool a couple days ago to have heh)

I found that the break in the wire is halfway from the cowl harness to the broken connector by the transmission (right behind the motor in the hardest to reach place LoL!)




next I think I’ll to splice into the brown white wire from the connector by the trans and by the connector under the cowl in theory this should bypass the broken wire and tell me if my CEL code is actually due to this. (Either way I know the wire is jacked up for sure)

this is fun! I’ve learned so much the last couple days!


but hey at least it starts! (Haven’t tried driving it a single foot all this is only at idle so far.
 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; Aug 25, 2020 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 03:35 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
UPDATE TIME!

ok so it now starts and idles but I’m getting code P1762 & P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor high

i thought maybe it was still stored in the pcm from previous truck so I cleared and now only P1763 comes up but it comes right back. Did my sensor in the transmission maybe fail?

ive never had this code before today.

i did the solenoid borg Warner kit upgrade only like 5,000 miles ago could it be dead already??

i read that a short in the downstream o2 sensor can cause this (which is where I had the jacked up pin) it’s currently unplugged so I’m thinking my issue is along those lines...

unplugges both my o2 sensors and set my multimeter to continuity (diode setting) as well as ohms and the green with orange stripe wire that has the bent pin beeps for continuity and has the .3 ohms showing so I don’t that wire is bad

i proceeded to test each color wire the brown and white wire shows no continuity so I used alligator clips and connected the pin from the brown white wire on the harness at the damaged connector to the brown white pin on the connector under the cowl (essentially making a jumper) then my multimeter was able to get a continuity reading from the jumper cable...

so that means the brown white wire coming from my downstream o2 harness plug is damaged somewhere between the plug by the tranny and the plug under the cowl...

doo dee doo dee doo...
2 coffees and a tuna sandwich later...

I proceeded to use the $25 cable tracer I bought from harbor freight to find the break in the wire (this woulda been a nice tool a couple days ago to have heh)

I found that the break in the wire is halfway from the cowl harness to the broken connector by the transmission (right behind the motor in the hardest to reach place LoL!)




next I think I’ll to splice into the brown white wire from the connector by the trans and by the connector under the cowl in theory this should bypass the broken wire and tell me if my CEL code is actually due to this. (Either way I know the wire is jacked up for sure)

this is fun! I’ve learned so much the last couple days!


but hey at least it starts! (Haven’t tried driving it a single foot all this is only at idle so far.
Glad you got it fixed. Electrical problems I personally like because they use logic and common sense
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 06:00 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Glad you got it fixed. Electrical problems I personally like because they use logic and common sense
ok so I ALMOST made a booboo the brown white wire from the harness by trans was a light brown and the brown white by the cowl connector was dark brown and white I almost spliced the wrong wire. But luckily I double checked my work first.

in the event my solenoid seems dead still is there a way to test it using a multimeter? Or do I have to swap it with another one to find out?

wither way imma have to drop the pan to find iut

easting some spaghetti first
 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; Aug 25, 2020 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:32 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
ok so I ALMOST made a booboo the brown white wire from the harness by trans was a light brown and the brown white by the cowl connector was dark brown and white I almost spliced the wrong wire. But luckily I double checked my work first.

in the event my solenoid seems dead still is there a way to test it using a multimeter? Or do I have to swap it with another one to find out?

wither way imma have to drop the pan to find iut

easting some spaghetti first
That I'm unsure off to be honest. I got mine cheap like $18 and just change them because they usually go bad when it's time for a filter change anyhow
 
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