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Dead PCM?

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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 05:03 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by DerTruck
Yeah sorry, I thought it was a 2000 MY not a 96. In 96 it's indeed fuse 4.

In any case I'm worried that replacing the PCM either doesn't fix it or it gets fried again as we still don't know what really happened. I'm a little wary of the aftermarket coil. If the high voltage side for some reason arcs over to the control side I can see the PCM getting damaged. There isn't any benefit to running the MSD coil as the truck does not have a high performance/high compression engine.

One idea I had was to remove the 30A fuse and the fuel pump and ASD relays. Make sure the ground at the front of the engine is good. Connect battery, turn on ignition and see if the OBD2 scanner can talk to the PCM again.
I agree about the pcm and MSD.
I’m going to the salvage yard tomorrow if I find a stock coil can I just swap it out with my MSD without any other modifications?


im happy to try that which ground on the front of the engine should I check? Like where on the engine is it located?
 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; Aug 24, 2020 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 06:38 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
I agree about the pcm and MSD.
I’m going to the salvage yard tomorrow if I find a stock coil can I just swap it out with my MSD without any other modifications?


im happy to try that which ground on the front of the engine should I check? Like where on the engine is it located?

Get the mounting bracket and the connector pigtail with the coil. The ground is between the A/C compressor and the power steering reservoir.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 08:59 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Leave everything unplugged. Test the brown/white wire at various points. (socket, and connector in the cowl) so your test both segments of the circuit. The test light should NOT light up.
When testing at the socket in the pdc it gets no light but when the testing at the Connector coming directly from the pdc (under the cowl) it gets a light...

pcm is not plugged in and the negative cable is not on the battery fwiw

i tried two different style testers
the one on the left required a connection to both ground and positive and is “automotive safe” it gives the light at the connector

rhe one on the right is the traditional test light that requires only ground and does NOT give any light.




 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; Aug 24, 2020 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 09:02 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by DerTruck
Yeah sorry, I thought it was a 2000 MY not a 96. In 96 it's indeed fuse 4.

In any case I'm worried that replacing the PCM either doesn't fix it or it gets fried again as we still don't know what really happened. I'm a little wary of the aftermarket coil. If the high voltage side for some reason arcs over to the control side I can see the PCM getting damaged. There isn't any benefit to running the MSD coil as the truck does not have a high performance/high compression engine.

One idea I had was to remove the 30A fuse and the fuel pump and ASD relays. Make sure the ground at the front of the engine is good. Connect battery, turn on ignition and see if the OBD2 scanner can talk to the PCM again.
checked the ground and even gave it a good scrub with the wire brush for good contact

removed asd, fuel pump relay and 30a fuse. Obd still fails
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:27 PM
  #115  
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The tester on the left is a 'logic' tester. It's reasonably smart, but, you need to be able to interpret what it's telling you. Usually, there are two, or even three lights in there, green means you have power at your test point, red (or yellow) means the circuit goes to ground. The three color fellers will also turn on a (white?) light if it is neither.

I think the PCM is well and truly fried.....
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:32 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The tester on the left is a 'logic' tester. It's reasonably smart, but, you need to be able to interpret what it's telling you. Usually, there are two, or even three lights in there, green means you have power at your test point, red (or yellow) means the circuit goes to ground. The three color fellers will also turn on a (white?) light if it is neither.

I think the PCM is well and truly fried.....
the light turns red.

lol I went to harbor freight and literally bought every single electrical testing device they have.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:33 PM
  #117  
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What does the manual for the tester tell you that means?

The other, single wire tester NOT lighting up is a good sign though.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 11:48 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
What does the manual for the tester tell you that means?

The other, single wire tester NOT lighting up is a good sign though.
The LED will glow red if a positive (+) source is probed or green if a negative (-) source is probed.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 06:35 AM
  #119  
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You said two pins on the 02 plug where touching, Asd relay power coil, injectors and 02's. Find out witch wires they where this is probably why the fuse blew if it was the power and ground terminals.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Packwood Digital
The LED will glow red if a positive (+) source is probed or green if a negative (-) source is probed.
How can there be power on a wire that isn't hooked to anything? That's REALLY weird.
 
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