I’m new to this forum I’m not sure if this topic has been discussed, but issues started in December, truck wouldn’t rev past 2500 RPM, gave codes for Cam sensor malfunction (can’t remember exact codes), went through and replaced both Cam and Crank Sensors, it then throws a P1391 code, checked the sensors and there was oil in the connections, used electrical contact cleaner on the connections and the P1391 disappeared. Took the truck for a test drive and the original issue still exist, albeit only after being warmed up and now the idle is a bit smoother. Hooked up the scan tool and put it in live data mode, and took it for a drive, MAP sensor when to 30in.HG when the bogging and Popping started, TPS only read 70.6% throttle at WOT, so i replaced both of them and the issue still remains, as well as the readings of both sensors. Also checked the ignition timing, up to 1/4 throttle looks normal, then it rapidly drops to 10 degrees advanced when the issue starts. I also checked the fuel pressure and key on engine off is 40PSI, engine running is 48.7PSI. Sorry about the long history, I’ve been fighting this issue since December, I really want my truck to run right again and I’m just short of taking it to the dealership to have them diagnose the issue

 

Well I am fighting a similar issue. Started after I had the top end apart. Mine is only when taking off from a stop it sputters and backfires then straightens out. I am going to redo my intake gaskets and see if that fixes is. I have seen a few different threads mentioning intake gaskets causing this. Have you tried to smoke test it for vacuum leaks?

 

smoke testing is probably gonna be my next step, but with mine after its warmed up i get to 2500 RPM at 1/4 throttle the MAP sensor reading jumps to 30in.hg. And the ignition timing drops off from 35 degrees advanced to 10 degrees advanced, i dont think my issue is vacuum related, but I’ve seen stranger things happen with a Volvo that I used to own

 

The forum consensus is to only use OEM sensors for cam, crank and O2 sensors. Having said that, the fact that TPS and MAP sensor readings are off and didn't change after changing them points more to an electrical issue. The crank sensor appears to run into trouble at higher RPMs as well. Did you ever check the 5V reference power ? Also make sure the grounds for the PCM and engine are good.

 

The cam and crank sensors are from rockauto, the MAP and TPS are Autozone Duralast gold series, i need to get a multimeter to check the 5V reference, and i need to check the grounds as well. Im hoping i dont have to replace that crank sensor again, i had to drop the oil pan on the last one after it snapped off in the block

 

I have a 1999 Shelby durango. When I first got it I had to put a motor in it. Well trying to tune it that had a real similar issue where You got to 3000 rpm just fine then all off a sudden no power, at all. Just maintained 3000rpm. Turned out to be a bad coil and bad crank sensor.

 

coils were both replaced last summer when they both failed, ironically after moving into my apartment and towing a heavily packed 6’x12’ Uhaul trailer 95 miles. Just did the cam crank map and tps, it only starts acting up once it’s fully warmed up now, im gonna be checking the grounds and 5V power when i get a multimeter/oscilloscope though, hopefully with that I’ll be able to see the sensors working too

 

It could be because it's not Mopar sensors

 

Any updates?

 

no updates as of yet, narrowed it down to a wiring issue of issues in the pcm, I’ll be taking it to my local dodge dealer on Thursday for diagnostics