Yes 3 inch studs and yes 8 3/4 with 323's

Thanks! At some point this beast is going to run a 1/4 mile at a strip. I also want to do a flying mile to see what kind of top end speed I can get. My goal (when I get the Viper/Ram hybrid engine done) is to be able to run a 12 second 1/4 and 150 in the flying mile without changing anything other than tires. I hope to be able to do both test runs with the stock V10 next year, then swap out the engine and run them again.

Ultimate goal would be a daily driver that can run 12's and can hit 150 top end.

 

My old V10 had 230,000 miles on it, the last 30,000 were on 9 cylinder because I broke an intake rocker stud. Could still pull 10,000 pounds of hay on the trailer no problem. LOL

 

I'll post the details and some photos in my thread but I broke the exhaust side and that caused the intake pushrod to fail.

 

Keep in mind, the truck V-10 redline is only 4500 RPM........

 

That is the red line in the PCM. When I reprogram it will be more than that.

I suspect the red line on the V10 is 4500 because that s where torque drops off, I can't see any reason the red line could be the same as the V8 or even the stock viper 5500. These engines are beefy.

When I build the Ram/Viper hybrid I will set the red line at the top of the power curve probably around 5600 to 6000.
Plan build for Ram/Viper Hybrid
Ram block, bored 30 over, square the deck and line bored
Ram Crank, polished and balanced (looking into shot peening but probably will not need it)
Rods H beam
Pistons forged flat tops with valve reliefs
Camshaft is not determined yet but will be around 550 lift and 290 duration
Gen 1 Viper heads, welded stock coolant passages and predrilled for Ram block coolant passages, milled just enough to make sure they are flat, polished ports, stainless valves and springs based on the cam selected, 1.6 stock viper rockers.
SRT10 intake - stock.

That's the general plan anyway. Should run run smooth enough to be a daily driver and meet my performance goals.

 

May be a balance issue..... or something even odder. Though the engine does run extremely smooth. (one of the major reasons I love my 8.0) Even with a dead miss on one cylinder, I couldn't tell....... Neither could the PCM. Never got a code for a misfire. As the spark plug wire was burnt in half, no way that cylinder was doing anything at all.

 

Mine broke the #10 intake stud and bent the exhaust and broke the intake rods. The truck was just being used as a farm truck by that time so I just kept running it ...... until it broke the lifter keeper and one of the lifters actually came out of the block and I couldn't hold oil pressure. Then I retired the truck.

One thing I like to tell people about these V10 is they can take a beating. The last few years I was not nice to the truck and I don't think I even changed the oil after the rocker broke. When I disassembled the engine it was in surprisingly good shape. When I got to the point of removing the pistons the top of the cylinders didn't even have a ridge to remove in order to get the pistons out.

 

Mine was the same. I could only feel a slight miss when pulling a heavy load of hay. Check engine light never cam on till I lost oil pressure.

 

Made a little progress on the V10 swap. I made a custom gauge cluster so I could hook up my mechanical gauges and got the cooling system installed so I could run the engine up to operating temp. Still no exhaust so I don't have any O2 sensors hooked up. Exhaust and O2 sensors are my next project.

So when I started the engine my oil light went out and the mechanical gauge was reading about 25 PSI. As the engine warmed up to 180, 190 the oil pressure dropped to about 15 psi and the light started coming on. When I increased RPM to around 2500 rpm the oil lamp goes out and oil pressure gauge jumps to 55 - 60 PSI. I checked the service manual and is shows the spec of 12 to 25 at idle and 50 - 60 at 3000rpm so I think OK.

So my question; is the oil sensor going bad? I would think if the factory spec is as low as 12 psi then the lamp shouldn't come on till pressure is below that.

 

15psi seems to low to me. My v10 is about 30-40psi warm idle. Did you check the screws for the oil pump cover? They are known to back out and cause loss of oil pressure, even seized a few that dropped to 0psi while driving. The oil pump is built as part of the timing cover and the screws for the pump cover are on the back side. Quick peace of mind to just locktite them in, I did on mine when I did my cam and head work.