Hi all

I recently acquired a replacement rear axle for my truck. Before I install it, I am attempting to pull the rear drums and am having some challenges. The drums currently on the truck have a lip on the back side of the drum that gives a surface to get some wacks on it with the BFH. The "new" axle, does not. There is nothing to grab onto. I have soaked everything for days at a time with PB Blaster, and hit it with a hammer everywhere I can and as hard as I feel comfortable with, but no hits in the actual direction I need to go. I have not yet tried heat, I will have to go get the tools for that to make that attempt. Is there anything obvious I am missing? I pulled the two little plugs out of the back and one of them I was able to get a punch into and I am pretty sure hit the backside of the drum, but it didn't work well and i just bent the punch. hopefully didn't damage anything internally.

I don't think it is possible the parking brake is engaged, as the cable itself is cut. If it is stuck, well I don't know how I would go about freeing it, but it does spin. Any ideas?

 

The parking brake adjuster should be backed off on both sides, so that the brake shoes aren't grabbing the brake drum on the inside. This will help with the removal of the worn brake drum.

Your post begs the question - if you have a complete replacement drum to drum rear axle assembly, why do you need to worry about removing the brake drums on the old, original axle assembly?

 

That is a great question. When I read through the service manual (chilton's finest) you had to remove the drum to completely separate the parking brake assembly. I don't know how else to proceed. The parking brake cable is cut through on the new axle, so it needs to come out and use what is existing on the truck. If i am wrong I will definitely take direction.

 

Thanks for the clarification. After I re-read your post closely, I now understand what you're trying to do. As mentioned, back off the parking brake adjusters on both side to help you remove the brake drums. If you haven't already done so, place your new rear axle assembly on two jack stands to make it easier to work on. Also, you can download the factory service manual for your year truck here, as Chilton manuals are merely excerpts of the factory service manual - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-manuals.html

 

But if the parking cable is cut a few feet upstream of the rear axle, then there should not be any tension on it, correct? there is nothing on the other side holding tension on the cable, it should be completely slack. unless there is something on the backside of the drum where the cable enters the wheel assembly?

 

The star wheel adjusters are for the service brakes as well. You need to push the adjuster out of the way, and then back off the star wheel so the lip on the inside of the drum isn't hanging up on the shoes. With cut cables, the parking brake is irrelevant.

To get the drums off, use a BIG hammer. I use a 3 lb. single jack. You aren't trying to hammer the drums off the axle, you are only trying to break the rust weld between the drum and the axle. So, sit/stand squarely facing the drum, and SMACK it on the corner where the swept area rolls over from the drum facing. Hit it HARD. Turn the drum 90 degrees, and hit it again. Several GOOD hits, and it should pop loose. Then you should be able to just pull it off.

 

Years ago I went thru this on our '98. Something about 9.25 drums -- they like to rust to the axle shaft.

In that case I actually tore the rear end down, removing the c-clips and put the axle/drum in my 50T press and pressed them apart. It let go with a helluva BANG. You need a press with a lot of Z space to do this, though.

I know what you're talking about as I just put a '96 rear in a '00. The '96 had the lip to grab. The '00 drum tucked into the backing plate - no lip.

Fortunately I needed to pull the '96 drums and on both sides I had to use the Astro drum puller. This thing is a lifesaver. I also just used it on the rear of my '07 F150 the same way: load up puller, go to town all around WMS with air hammer. Leave one lugnut installed by just a couple threads!

In the case of the later drums that tuck in, I'd definitely try HeyYou's suggestion. If that doesn't work I would not necessarily be afraid of bending the backing plate out of the way enough to get the Astro puller jaws hooked. You can bend it back reasonably well afterward, and it doesn't have to be perfect.

Reinstall with copious anti-seize on the axle flange.

Also I'm not a Toyota fan boi and don't even like Toyota that much but they put two M8 tapped holes in their drums for jackscrews -- genius!!

Astro puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-...s%2C253&sr=8-3

 

I had this issue with my 2500, I made a slide hammer that bolted onto three of the studs. A few wacks and it was off. Harbor freight has one($26) that has hooks that you can use on the studs. Just put the lug nut on backwards and you can grab it with the hook.