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Initial Steps to Revive 1995 V10

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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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Question Initial Steps to Revive 1995 V10

Hi all! First time post, so please let me know what I do wrong/mess up. I read the sticky, searched the forum, and think I have a valid new thread.
First - thanks to all the folks who take time to break down their repairs/upgrades and post pictures. I've scoured them for years (often for no reason other than because I find it interesting!) and know it takes extra time and effort - sure appreciate it. [Cue the boring details: I'm the original owner of a 1995 Ram 2500 4wd V10. I bought it in college and have had it ever since. It was my daily driver until about 4 years ago when I parked it in my driveway and it never moved again. It had gotten a bit unreliable, I was too busy to mess with it, and had a new(er) daily driver so I just didn't do anything with it. I've never sold it though because I've had it so long. My wife and I have raised 4 girls (a couple still at home) and they've always loved 'Daddy's truck' and have good memories of riding in it. I did consider selling it a couple years ago, as the body rust started forming, and the kids vehicles starting taking up space in the driveway. Fast forward - I now have a bit more time, and a bit more money to spend on the truck. I guess I'm just too sentimental to get rid of it - heck, it's been a big part of my youth, my marriage, and my kid-raising days! So, the wife and I discussed it, and she's great with me restoring it. I know it won't be cheap - I don't have stupid money to throw at it, but I already know I could easily spend $10k+ just to get it to decent shape, so I think I'm mentally prepared for it to be somewhat of a money pit.]
All that said, I could use some confirmation that I'm about to take the correct first steps. (BTW - My skill level is basic diy - meaning I can do super basic maintenance, but about the most advanced repair I've done is sensor replacements and swapping out the track bar. I work a desk job, but I find getting under the truck pretty relaxing mentally, I know how to research things, I can generally afford to get the right tools for the job, and I love to learn new things. So I THINK I am ready to tackle this!!)
So here's my initial plan that I could use input on. Don't hesitate to point out my ignorance, I'm old enough to know that I'm dumb in this area, but I've always found it interesting and I greatly admire the wisdom in these forums. There are some things I can do pretty well, but in this area I know there are teenagers on these threads with infinitely more knowledge than me - I'm just ready to learn.
I'm assuming getting clean fuel/air/combustion is the first priority. I'm thinking that my initial steps are to
  • Remove the bed (because of the following steps. I did them once a decade ago without removing the bed and it was not fun!),
  • Swap the fuel pump,
  • Drain/clean the tank,
  • Replace any bad fuel lines,
  • Clean the fuel rail?(not sure exactly how to accomplish that best? just remove and soak in parts cleaner?),
  • Drop the oil pan, clean, oil/filter change
  • [at this point could crank it over and see what happens I suppose?]
  • Replace air filter,
  • Replace plugs/wires,
  • Replace coil packs
  • Go ahead and chase down vacuum leaks/replace vacuum lines
After that, I would presume I would tackle some of the bigger engine diagnostics:
  • Leakdown test
  • Compression test
  • Fuel pressure test
  • Check the plenum gasket condition (still trying to wrap my head around that one)
  • Likely on to 02 sensors and Cat replacement
And then from there begin addressing issues that are discovered through diagnostics (sensors, electrical, timing, compression, etc)
Ultimately while bed is off I'll replace brake lines, clean up the frame, etc, ....ultimately body and interior.
So that's my initial plan to get it where I can turn it over, maybe pull it into my garage, and begin doing some actual diagnostics to see what kind of shape it's in. Is there anything I'm missing? Any issues you see? I need to confirm, but I think it's sitting at something like 104,000 miles if I remember right, I can check when I get home tonight. I will also get some pictures of it up as soon as I figure that out. Also - I promise not to be so wordy on subsequent posts!! Thanks in advance for any guidance!
 
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 12:21 PM
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If you want to do this as a therapeutic activity that's all fine. I'd just try to get it running and see what needs attention. Check for any critters having moved in (e.g. airfilter housing) and if they caused any damage. Spin the engine over by hand and if it doesn't move pour some ATF or similar into the plug holes. If it cranks over it might start on the old gas but likely you need to spray some starting fluid into the intake. If it runs somewhat, let it warm up and change the oil/filter. Then take it from there.

No plenum gasket on a V10 so consider yourself lucky
 
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks for the response -sounds good. Assuming plugs need removed/changed - is there value in spraying them with something like Kroil or PB Blaster and letting it sit for awhile? Will it help prevent me from breaking one off?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 06:11 PM
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Hitting the plugs with chems first sure ain't gonna hurt.

I would flush the fuel system, but, would hold off on replacing the pump, until you determine if you really need to.

Change the oil, see if it will start.

See how it runs, generates any codes, etc.

Go from there.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 09:48 PM
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104K is a bit early for a new fuel pump. I'd swap out the plugs and a little B'Laster won't hurt. This will give you a hot spark for old fuel. I'd drain as much of the old fuel out before starting. I'd also clean all the grounds and cables. Corrosion can cause a drag and cause issues if it doesn't want to start right off. Before starting, fresh oil and filter is a good idea. This will get the fuel byproducts out and then crank it over a bit with the ignition disabled. Just a few seconds of cranking will get pressure up to avoid a dry start.

I think it will start okay but my concern would be the brakes. Calipers tend to stick along with wheel cylinders. The flex hoses, especially if they are original, tend to give problems too. Don't forget, there are three flex hoses. Two in front and one in back.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:30 AM
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Thanks for the guidance all! As far as cleaning all the grounds and cables - do you typically just go searching for the grounds or is there a diagram for those? Thanks again everyone!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:39 AM
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Grounds, mostly around the engine box, battery ground near the power steering, other big ones are the heads to firewall, two on a '95 V-10, and the PCM harness/alternator ground located near the thermostat housing. Few other small ones for lighting and brakes. Flushing fuel system easier said than done, but you'll get one side of the rail by pulling the schrader test valve on the right side in front of the coils, have to bump the key a few times to get the fuel moving. Makes a mess, hook a hose drain it into a container, be careful, etc.. Don't overthink this too much.
 

Last edited by 69_XS29L; Aug 5, 2021 at 09:47 AM.
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:44 AM
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You can download the service manual for your truck from here.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:57 AM
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Thanks so much fellas! Wife just told me she booked us a long weekend trip, so I'll be gone a few days, but then I'm going to start tackling some of this and I'll report back. Thanks again!!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:58 AM
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Keep us updated. We love projects, and spending other peoples money.
 
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