I noticed the video in the sticky is the one I found. Monday I'll head to the dealer and see if they have a parts diagram and check valves. To clarify a couple of things, I removed the driver knee bolster and can see the servo on the drivers side of the box operate when I move the switch to floor vents. It makes no difference to air flow. If I go to recirculate, I do notice a change in over all flow, but still mostly floor. I can also hear it move.

 

I found the location of the problem. I pulled the cover off the air bag module and can see up in the lower dash. The servo on the bottom of the dash moves when I move the selector. The plastic lever on the end of it though, it moves but shifts around from side to side and sort of rolls sideways. Evidently, what ever it's attached to is broken. I've got the battery unhooked and plan to pull the air bag module to see if I can drop the lower vents to access it.

If nothing else, I may hark back to my LTR motorcycle days. I rode Sport Touring bikes and had 3 Kawasaki Concours C-10 bikes. The first one had 6000 miles when I bought it and 110,000 when I sold it. In the winter, Concours owners stuff the foam strip that goes around window air units into the fairing openings. One lower vent would be left to cool the headers, but the rest of the heat would come back over the lower legs. I remember days when it would be in the 20's but I was toasty warm and my feet would actually sweat. I figure if nothing else, I'll plug the bottom vents to force air out the dash.




You can just see the plastic piece that is broken just past the servo. Now the fun part of getting things apart to fix them.

 

I remember those days to but my bike didn't have a fairing so you just froze. Would like to stop for red lights, gave me time to put my gloves on the motor to warm them up.

 

I had electric gloves too. They were fairly useless in town but on the highway with the engine cranked up, it made enough heat I had to stick my hands into the air stream to cool them off on long runs. (LDR stands for long distance riding) I did two SS1000 runs but never got my plate frame. I didn't get my paperwork right on one and over slept on a madatory break on the second and finished 5 minutes too late.

I've thought about getting another bike since I'm not blind anymore but then I get some common sense. My left side doesn't have the strength it used to have.

 

Well, I have the vent issue fixed, sort of. It's from the Jak Legg School of design and lacks elegance, but I get strong air flow from the dash and defrost vents. My dash assembly is so cracked and falling apart, I don't think it could take removal and proper repair. I'd probably have a pile of cracked plastic pieces. Evidently, it's been like this for a LONG time. I pulled the flap door shut with my finger and blew trash all over the inside of the truck.

I used a 4 foot section of mechanics wire. I drilled a small hole in the flap door and ran the wire through it. I then drilled a small hole in the vent plenum. Put everything back together and now when I want dash air, pull the wire. Like I said, it lacks elegance but works. It actually got uncomfortably cold with the a/c going.

 

AKA: Ghetto rig!

 

These doors are made to be installed as an OEM fit. This is our full 2nd gen kit. www.blendoorusa.com


This is a complete kit to repair your 1994-2002 Ram truck. This kit includes new solid aluminum HVAC doors to replace the Recirculation Door, Panel Door, Defrost/Floor Door and a bracket to repair your original metal Blend Door. This is a complete repair kit that will eliminate all of the weak plastic components from your HVAC doors.
The OEM Blend Door is made of metal and does not break. However, it has a weak plastic driver that often fails. Our kit will re-utilize the OEM metal door, but we include a CNC machined aluminum driver to replace the weak plastic driver.
The OEM Recirculation Door is made of plastic, but already has a metal arm on it that connects it to the vacuum actuator. Our kit will re-utilize the OEM steel arm, but we replace the weak plastic door with a solid aluminum replacement door.
All parts are manufactured in Michigan and are CNC machined out of solid aluminum. We proudly guarantee everything we produce for life.

 

Alas, my dash is so brittle, it would probably fall apart if I try to remove it. It's currently held together with "Gorilla Tape". I still have the wild vents but I can live with that until I can get a couple of check valves.

 

Does that include the foam strips in the kit? And when they fail are you going to pull the dash/hvac box out again to replace them? Better up grade it to sponge rubber(solid piece) like i did when i rebuilt mine.

 

We use open cell foam to seal our doors. Most factory open cell foam is a polyester based foam that is biodegradable, which is why it comes apart and blows out of the vents. Our foam is a synthetic polyether based foam that is not biodegradable and therefore will not deteriorate like the original foam. We have never had a failure with any of our kits ever.