4x4 Grinding Noise in Drivetrain
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
OK, that looks pretty sweet, a lot less complicated and cheaper too. I'll do some due diligence, but I think I may go this way. The only thing I'd lose not going with the Posi-Lok is the ability to have 2WD Low, which I thought might be nice, but I don't know that I'd ever really use it
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Epilogue:
The job ended up being a little more than I thought it would be, but I went with the CAD delete system, and I like it. The inner shaft bearing on my truck had self destructed, and needle bearings were scattered through the housing, so I ended up having to pull everything to clean it out. The passenger side seal was essentially non existent, water had gotten into the diff, and the lube was really nasty. Since I had everything torn down I went ahead and replaced the ball joints. The small ball joint kit from Harbor Freight had everything needed to do the job, including the right size tube to pull the seal in the CAD cavity. You just need to buy some allthread and washers to pull it in place. The vibration is gone, as well as a nasty clunk that I had that I couldn't track down, and the steering is tight because of the new ball joints. One of the things that has to be done with the CAD delete is to switch the vacuum switch out with an electric switch. A '96 Jeep Cherokee switch is recommended, but it's $58, and a Dorman 600-551 will do the trick for $15. It works like a charm. Truck feels like new
The job ended up being a little more than I thought it would be, but I went with the CAD delete system, and I like it. The inner shaft bearing on my truck had self destructed, and needle bearings were scattered through the housing, so I ended up having to pull everything to clean it out. The passenger side seal was essentially non existent, water had gotten into the diff, and the lube was really nasty. Since I had everything torn down I went ahead and replaced the ball joints. The small ball joint kit from Harbor Freight had everything needed to do the job, including the right size tube to pull the seal in the CAD cavity. You just need to buy some allthread and washers to pull it in place. The vibration is gone, as well as a nasty clunk that I had that I couldn't track down, and the steering is tight because of the new ball joints. One of the things that has to be done with the CAD delete is to switch the vacuum switch out with an electric switch. A '96 Jeep Cherokee switch is recommended, but it's $58, and a Dorman 600-551 will do the trick for $15. It works like a charm. Truck feels like new
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
