Might want to check the EGR on that motor. I believe it's on the intake at the rear of the motor in that year. Also, did the mechanic replace the crank sensor with a MOPAR sensor, as the engines seem to not run well or for very long with aftermarket crank sensors? I'm going though a crank sensor swap myself after the truck cut off in the middle of the road on me. Lastly, might want to really clean up the throttle body and the idle air controller (IAC) at the rear of the throttle body, too.

 

A Dog, the mechanic replaced that crank sensor just 2 days ago to try and fix the issue. I'll show him what you wrote! These sound like great suggestions people!

 

My truck would die randomly while driving down the road with a aftermarket BWD crank sensor I purchased a few years ago. I had my scanner with me when it happened and it showed a crank sensor related pending code on the scanner right after the truck died. I disconnected the battery cables and touched the positive & negative cables to fully drain things/reset the computer and the truck started right back up to enable me to make it back home, albeit missing a bit on the way home. Once home, I ordered a crank sensor online from a Dodge dealer and waiting for a bit of warmth here to get it installed.

 

A timing chain rattle is something you have to know what to listen for. If the timing chain hasn't ever been changed, it may have a bearing but I'd check for codes. An advantage of a Chrysler product is the key dance. With the truck off, do not go to the start position. Turn the key on, then off, then on, then off then on and leave it on the third time. Depending on the year, either your check engine light will flash or the odometer will read any codes. I think your truck will flash the CEL. For instance, if the light flashes once, then twice, that is code 12. That means the battery was unhooked in the last 50-100 key starts. You usually will get this on an older vehicle. Five flashes followed by five more is code 55. That means end of session. Each code will repeat a second time before going to the next code. Any other codes will lead you to the problem child. Sit down with a note pad and write the codes down. You can list them here, get a Haynes manual for your truck and look them up in chapter 6 or do a Google search for trouble codes. Yours is right when OBD I was being phased out and OBD II was coming in.

I really don't think the computer is your issue. With a quarter of a million miles on it, something is just worn out. I'm sure it has plenty of life left, it'll just need more maintenance.

 

I wish I'd seen this post before I made my last post. Clean the throttle body. It may not be the problem but I've had Dodge Magnums do this when all it needed was a good cleaning. It may not be the problem but it's cheap to do. Get a can of spray Fuel Injection Cleaner. Gummout used to have a notice on their can to NOT use the carburetor cleaner as it was too harsh on electronic controls. There is even dedicated throttle body cleaner. Pull the air filter housing off and look down the throttle body. Using a paper towel, spray down the throat of the throttle body. Hold the plate open and spray around. Use a paper towel to wipe everything clean. Cloth might get a piece in and stop something up but paper will burn off right away. Reassemble everything and start the truck It will be HARD to start because of all the gooky stuff (<-----fancy technical term) will have to burn off. Once it starts, it will take a bit to burn off all the gooky stuff (<---fancy technical term again) but as it runs, it will burn it off and smooth out. I had a truck go to the dealer 2 or 3 times under warranty for this. After warranty I cleaned it myself. It's cheap and easy to do. If it cures it, great! If not, you aren't out much time or money. The inner Scotsman in me likes that. That's why I drive a car with Scottish brakes. It'll stop on a dime....and pick it up.

 

It's a long shot, but did you ever try and open the fuel cap when it started having issues ?

Circling back to a possibly temperature related issue, the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is another hall effect sensor that might deteriorate over time. On a 95 it needs to work to keep the engine running.

 

yeah I fueled up at least once during this whole issue. it's quit 3 times, luckily somewhere where I was able to pull off the road! Had to get three times for a tow home,

I joined AAA after the 3rd time LOL!

 

That wasn't really the question. Granted it's more typical of carbureted vehicles but when the fuel tank is not venting properly it can starve the engine for fuel. Opening the gas cap equalizes the vacuum in the fuel tank.

 

Eric at South Main Auto calls 'em Broke When Delivered

 

I read the information about the truck. Did your mechanic just replace these parts without checking for codes. And is he or she using Mopar parts. The aftermarket part, such as sensors and fuel pump do not hold up well on Dodge products. What is you fuel pressure when running and driving. Should be 48 give or take plus 2. Do you have a inline fuel filter and has all the ground wires been inspected and tighten.