NP241DLD carnage
#11
#12
I keep trying to capture the crack better but front output interrupts line of sight. This is the top of the case and the crack runs ALL the way to the bottom
As viewed from bottom the REAR case half is also cracked front to back
Cool shot of a "smeared" u-joint that lived in the front CV
This is our $500 used replacement. I finally got smart(er) -- which is a pretty low bar -- and cleaned it up BEFORE splitting it open and thus shooting lots of dirt inside. It's not perfect but clean enough on the exterior now
#13
I didn't want to open our new-to-us $500 'case but I knew I should. I was hoping to re-seal the case halves after seeing everything was beautiful inside. HAH!
This unit is a bit of a basket case, with an odd sludge that's like the consistency of dry cake batter esp around the oil pickup. Also 4wd shift fork pads are gone or mostly munched.
The good news? The range fork pads are beautiful. Hey, gotta look for something positive!!
Yuck
That partial washer is plastic -- no idea where that came from?? All that goop was on magnet.
4wd fork pad munched
Other 4wd pad gone
This unit is a bit of a basket case, with an odd sludge that's like the consistency of dry cake batter esp around the oil pickup. Also 4wd shift fork pads are gone or mostly munched.
The good news? The range fork pads are beautiful. Hey, gotta look for something positive!!
Yuck
That partial washer is plastic -- no idea where that came from?? All that goop was on magnet.
4wd fork pad munched
Other 4wd pad gone
#14
#15
Here's the difference you'll see mentioned about an upgraded input bearing. One (older) has a single row of rollers, the other is literally ~twice the depth and has 2 rolls of rollers.
Ironically, it was the double row that failed on our new-to-us $500 case
So, I pulled the bearing from our older $100 case, but it was the single row.
Finally, I pulled the bearing from our original CRACKED case because it was also a double row being an '02.
I was actually able to hook into the snap ring groove and pull the input bearing without breaking down the CRACKED case
Pulling front input bearing without separating case halves on our old CRACKED case. Indexable pry bars FTW
Ironically, it was the double row that failed on our new-to-us $500 case
So, I pulled the bearing from our older $100 case, but it was the single row.
Finally, I pulled the bearing from our original CRACKED case because it was also a double row being an '02.
I was actually able to hook into the snap ring groove and pull the input bearing without breaking down the CRACKED case
Pulling front input bearing without separating case halves on our old CRACKED case. Indexable pry bars FTW
#16
#17
In our new-to-us $500 case which had somehow munched the double row front input bearing, it had fed at least some of those rollers thru the planetary assy. Not good.
Much of the planetary has damage like this in our "new" $500 case
I was taught to check axial play in Borg Warners years ago like this. IIRC max spec for a BW1356 was .060". Our $500 NP241DLD here was .070" but the assy from the $100 unit was .035" because it hasn't ground rollers thru the planetary. There are thrust washer/shims in the planetaries and the bad one here was actually trying to push pieces of those shims out, contributing to the slop in the assembly
Much of the planetary has damage like this in our "new" $500 case
I was taught to check axial play in Borg Warners years ago like this. IIRC max spec for a BW1356 was .060". Our $500 NP241DLD here was .070" but the assy from the $100 unit was .035" because it hasn't ground rollers thru the planetary. There are thrust washer/shims in the planetaries and the bad one here was actually trying to push pieces of those shims out, contributing to the slop in the assembly
#18
#19
I was trying to get this done today with everything on hand. I needed to move a front output seal from one front half to another, so I needed to get the good seal out without damaging it.
I was able to use the screw jacks I made in school years ago to support the front case halves as I drove the front output seal out
This is a copy of an OTC 303-635 seal installer. I copied the real thing while I had my hands on one because - believe it or not - they retail north of $250. The tool is intended for Ford front crank seals. It fits the backside of the NP241 front output seal perfectly, allowing you to drive it out with no damage to the seal
Tool has a relief to accommodate the rubber lip of the seal
Fits the backside perfectly to drive out the 19060 front output seal
I was able to use the screw jacks I made in school years ago to support the front case halves as I drove the front output seal out
This is a copy of an OTC 303-635 seal installer. I copied the real thing while I had my hands on one because - believe it or not - they retail north of $250. The tool is intended for Ford front crank seals. It fits the backside of the NP241 front output seal perfectly, allowing you to drive it out with no damage to the seal
Tool has a relief to accommodate the rubber lip of the seal
Fits the backside perfectly to drive out the 19060 front output seal
#20
Now, installing the 19060 is a different matter. My OTC facsimile wasn't large enough to clear the flared rubber lip on the front of the seal.
However I found 2.5" oilfield pipe (thus 2-7/8" OD) was close. I chucked up a short drop and relieved the ID a bit more. Worked great!
A little relief in pipe ID to clear flared rubber lip on front of seal
The pipe is still large enough to bottom on the case itself, ensuring you drive the seal flush and square
Installed
However I found 2.5" oilfield pipe (thus 2-7/8" OD) was close. I chucked up a short drop and relieved the ID a bit more. Worked great!
A little relief in pipe ID to clear flared rubber lip on front of seal
The pipe is still large enough to bottom on the case itself, ensuring you drive the seal flush and square
Installed