Can't Trust Parking Brake
#11
#12
Firstly, the parking brake SHOULD hold no matter what incline or decline you're on. I've parked on crazy hills with big loads and hauling trailers. If the brake starts to creep, I double up with 1st or R. If the brakes are getting too loose, I remove the drum and do my semi-annual maintenance and adjustment. They were very bad a couple years ago so I rebuilt them for the 3rd time and it holds strong again. Time to get "greasy" as you say.
Secondly, the engine should NOT turn over when parked in gear. If it is, then the engine has low compression and needs rebuilding. Mine is 23 years old and has over 281k on it and still holds no problem.
Secondly, the engine should NOT turn over when parked in gear. If it is, then the engine has low compression and needs rebuilding. Mine is 23 years old and has over 281k on it and still holds no problem.
#13
Based on some of the comments here I tried to narrow down when it rolled:
Driveway isn't too steep, maybe a 10% grade.
In first, no brake it stayed.
In reverse, no brake it stayed.
With the brake only, sometimes it stayed with many ratchets, others it rolled slightly when there were lesser ratchet sounds but eventually stopped after 6-10" of roll.
I crept up a bit on a steeper part of my driveway and every combination crept. First was so slow to be noticeable; reverse would move an inch or two, then stop, then move an inch or two, then stop, and so on, and the brake rolled as if it weren't on at all. Each time there was a constant groan from the back wheels.
I'll try adjusting the brake first to see what happens there. It just seems that over the last 23 years either the dealer or an independent mechanic would have tried or suggested it already.
I park it on the street now with the tires turned into the curb just like driver's ed taught me!
Thanks!
Driveway isn't too steep, maybe a 10% grade.
In first, no brake it stayed.
In reverse, no brake it stayed.
With the brake only, sometimes it stayed with many ratchets, others it rolled slightly when there were lesser ratchet sounds but eventually stopped after 6-10" of roll.
I crept up a bit on a steeper part of my driveway and every combination crept. First was so slow to be noticeable; reverse would move an inch or two, then stop, then move an inch or two, then stop, and so on, and the brake rolled as if it weren't on at all. Each time there was a constant groan from the back wheels.
I'll try adjusting the brake first to see what happens there. It just seems that over the last 23 years either the dealer or an independent mechanic would have tried or suggested it already.
I park it on the street now with the tires turned into the curb just like driver's ed taught me!
Thanks!
#14
Yeah, maybe the clutch is slipping! That makes sense too of course. Would it help to put the xfer case in low? Give the engine an easier 'grab' perhaps.
#15
The way the cable works, you adjust one side and the center clip pulls on the other wheel. It's worked fine for decades. I'm still ondering what the brakes look like inside. If the shoes are glazed or brake fluid is leaking from a wheel cylinder, the brakes won't hold.
#16
I'll have to try that what the OP said is exactly how my truck acts. Doesn't move much but maybe 2-3 inches.
#17
First thought when I read your post title is, "Ive never had a dodge i did trust the parking brake", especially those with disc brake, drums with self adjusters seem to do a little better
My diesels with manuals will rarely hold the truck on any decent incline in first or reverse, thats been with factory clutches, after market clutches, dual disc clutches blah blah, usually its a combination of first or reverse in 4lo with brake set if I have a trailer or anything on, If you haven't been inside your rear brakes in the last couple years definitely worth a look inside, adjusters are probably seized up, cables could be seized, the adjuster bolt takes an extra extra deep type socket, for whatever reason manuals seem to eat parking brakes way faster, not sure if they don't release fully or what goes on
My diesels with manuals will rarely hold the truck on any decent incline in first or reverse, thats been with factory clutches, after market clutches, dual disc clutches blah blah, usually its a combination of first or reverse in 4lo with brake set if I have a trailer or anything on, If you haven't been inside your rear brakes in the last couple years definitely worth a look inside, adjusters are probably seized up, cables could be seized, the adjuster bolt takes an extra extra deep type socket, for whatever reason manuals seem to eat parking brakes way faster, not sure if they don't release fully or what goes on
#19
I've messed around with these parking brakes quite a bit on both 9.25s (full drum) and Dodge's bastard D70 (with D80 pig) with DIH (drum in hat discs)
I've never referenced an FSM procedure, which is not to say that I'm "just that good" but more likely I'm just that stupid.
I just take the caveman approach:
Step 1: if wheel seals are leaking gear oil into your drum, address that
Step 2: adjust shoes as close to drum ID as possible but not so tight they'll generate excessive heat while driving
Step 3: adjust cable as tight as reasonably possible. Adjuster is kind of under driver, outside of framerail
Also, take a good look at adjuster before you begin this. The "all thread" runs through a fairly thin piece of cupped, stamped steel. If you live in the rust belt, this gets very, um, porous. Second, clean and spray the threads on the adjuster daily a couple days before attempting this
And yeah, all this ASSumes your pedal assembly is ratcheting and holding correctly. I've never seen them not hold but it seems some ratchet and return while some stay locked to the floor? And with use they ALL get a weak return spring. It all feels like the pinnacle of Iacocca quality
I've never referenced an FSM procedure, which is not to say that I'm "just that good" but more likely I'm just that stupid.
I just take the caveman approach:
Step 1: if wheel seals are leaking gear oil into your drum, address that
Step 2: adjust shoes as close to drum ID as possible but not so tight they'll generate excessive heat while driving
Step 3: adjust cable as tight as reasonably possible. Adjuster is kind of under driver, outside of framerail
Also, take a good look at adjuster before you begin this. The "all thread" runs through a fairly thin piece of cupped, stamped steel. If you live in the rust belt, this gets very, um, porous. Second, clean and spray the threads on the adjuster daily a couple days before attempting this
And yeah, all this ASSumes your pedal assembly is ratcheting and holding correctly. I've never seen them not hold but it seems some ratchet and return while some stay locked to the floor? And with use they ALL get a weak return spring. It all feels like the pinnacle of Iacocca quality
#20
Also years ago I had a seasoned mechanic tell me his shop only used OEM parking brake cables. He said aftermarket just never fit quite right. My experience since has been the same. Aftermarket is attractive because it's affordable and readily available, but there's always some almost-but-not-quite issue with fitment.
So, if you feel you need new cable(s) try for OEM. That said, I don't know if you can still find OEM cables for these trucks????
So, if you feel you need new cable(s) try for OEM. That said, I don't know if you can still find OEM cables for these trucks????