2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

46RE late shift after overhaul

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 12:00 PM
  #11  
MrLantz's Avatar
MrLantz
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Okay, so I think I'm getting closer to something...

The truck seems to run fine as long as it's cold. As soon as it gets up to working temp the problems start occuring again. I was just out on a test drive and after about 10-12 minutes it started clinging to gears, jump out of gears and the whirring/whining noise started coming back. This time I had the opportunity to climb under the truck and could locate the noise most likely coming from the torque converter. I have no idea why.

I unplugged the 8-pin connector in the transmission, essentialy making the transmission obey my commands, and took off again in manual 1st. I shifted through 1-2-3 with no real difference, it seems to slip out of gear anyway. This of course generated a check engine light which I've never had before. BUT, when I plugged it back in and restarted the car it stayed on. I grabbed my reader and found 2 codes: P0753 (Shift Solenoid A Electrical, which I believe has to do with gear 3-4) and P1763 (which I believe is governor pressure sensor).

As to why my torque converter is making noise I really don't know. Could this be at all related to my codes?
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 12:44 PM
  #12  
AtomicDog's Avatar
AtomicDog
Champion
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,869
Likes: 434
From: Central VA
Default

May not be related, but, have you removed/bypassed the check valve in your transmission cooler line to help your transmission stay cool? If not, please take a look at this thread on how to remove the check valve and bypass it - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...46rh-46re.html
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 01:31 PM
  #13  
MrLantz's Avatar
MrLantz
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by AtomicDog
May not be related, but, have you removed/bypassed the check valve in your transmission cooler line to help your transmission stay cool? If not, please take a look at this thread on how to remove the check valve and bypass it - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...46rh-46re.html
Thanks for your reply.
No, I have not removed or bypassed the check valve. It's also very unlikely the noise is due to overheating (the trans temp light would have come on, right?) since this was just a very short drive from cold start in very cold weather. It does however seem like heat is a factor since that's when my problems start.. But overheating feels unlikely.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 02:22 PM
  #14  
MrLantz's Avatar
MrLantz
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

I'm thinking I might as well order some stuff, but I'm unsure about the solenoids/transducers.

The things I'm looking to order are:
1 x Borg-Warner Governor pressure sensor
1 x Governor pressure transducer
1 x Governor body gasket
1 x 3-4 accumulator spring
1 x Lock-up and OD solenoid with harness

This should sort out the P1763 code

What I'm confused about is if I'm supposed to get a 3-4 shift solenoid also? (for the P0753 code). Or is it the same as the Lock-up and OD solenoid?
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 02:30 PM
  #15  
AtomicDog's Avatar
AtomicDog
Champion
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,869
Likes: 434
From: Central VA
Lightbulb

Originally Posted by MrLantz
Thanks for your reply.
No, I have not removed or bypassed the check valve. It's also very unlikely the noise is due to overheating (the trans temp light would have come on, right?) since this was just a very short drive from cold start in very cold weather. It does however seem like heat is a factor since that's when my problems start.. But overheating feels unlikely.
Understand. Just wanted to mention it, since it has caused many folks issues with their transmissions. It's something to keep in mind to do as you perform other transmission maintenance/repairs.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 02:33 PM
  #16  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Default

You have mechanical issues in the trans. If it still screws up with the electronics disabled (and yes, that WILL set those codes), its rebuild time. Probably something from when the snap ring broke made its way thru the trans, and that was the beginning of the end.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 03:13 PM
  #17  
MrLantz's Avatar
MrLantz
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou
You have mechanical issues in the trans. If it still screws up with the electronics disabled (and yes, that WILL set those codes), its rebuild time. Probably something from when the snap ring broke made its way thru the trans, and that was the beginning of the end.
Not trying to be naive here, but what about it working perfectly when cold? A mechanical issue would surely always be there regardless of hot/cold trans.

Also, we found both pieces of the snap ring intact when removing everything and could form a complete snap ring with the pieces.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 03:41 PM
  #18  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Default

With the 8 pin connector unplugged, the electronics no longer play any role in the transmissions function. Something is getting warm, and failing internally. Pressure is bleeding off somewhere. Finding it is the fun part.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 04:02 PM
  #19  
MrLantz's Avatar
MrLantz
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou
With the 8 pin connector unplugged, the electronics no longer play any role in the transmissions function. Something is getting warm, and failing internally. Pressure is bleeding off somewhere. Finding it is the fun part.
Thank you for your reply.
I agree it seems like it's loosing pressure.

Would you have any idea of what could have caused this doing what the workshop did? Everything worked perfectly before, and the truck only has 11000 miles on it.. I'm not really ready to pay for a complete rebuild atm.
 
Reply
Old Mar 1, 2022 | 09:30 PM
  #20  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Default

Originally Posted by MrLantz
Thank you for your reply.
I agree it seems like it's loosing pressure.

Would you have any idea of what could have caused this doing what the workshop did? Everything worked perfectly before, and the truck only has 11000 miles on it.. I'm not really ready to pay for a complete rebuild atm.
Unfortunately, the inner workings of automatic transmissions are black magic so far as I am concerned. You spin one end, and it might come out the other end, faster, slower, or even the opposite direction. What happens in between there? That's the magic. I can do basic troubleshooting, but, beyond that, I am just guessing. I suspect though, that it isn't a result of what the shop did, more than likely, its a result of why you took it to the shop in the first place. It was gonna happen anyway.... regardless of if it went to the shop. Probably wouldn't hurt to drop the pan, and see if you find anything interesting......
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:37 PM.