I had been ignoring the light because it used to come on, shut off, come on, shut off, and was often related to the pressure sensor reading high voltage or low voltage, yeah I got that weird code that couldn’t decide between the two

 

Theoretically, the check valve was to prevent torque converter drain back, which would delay trans engagement if it sat for more than a couple hours. In reality, it's job was to clog up with various junk, including congealed trans fluid from a poorly maintained trans, to the point that fluid wouldn't pass any more, and the trans would smoke itself.

Stock, the trans does NOT charge the torque converter in park. (which is why you need to check fluid level in neutral.) Most trans rebuild kits include a method to fix that, so the pump DOES charge the T/C, and then you can also check your fluid level in park.

 

Interesting, I didn’t know about the neutral thing. I usually check the fluid after running through the gears anyways but I’ll keep it in neutral now. But why is my trans over heating? The fluid coming out the cooler seems cool enough. I can’t comfortably hold my hand on the inlet fitting but I can on the outlet

 

Need to see what temp it really is... one of the cheap IR temp guns from the parts store would work fine, and then see what temp the PCM thinks the trans is..... The sensor might just be lying. Wouldn't be the first time I got a bad part, right out of the box.

 

I hope it’s bad voltage or something, I’m planning to get a cooled deep sump pan with a sensor slot. So I’ll probably move that up the priority list

 

I mean unfortunately it would make sense why my fluid keeps coming out black, I just don’t understand why it’s over heating. Im pretty sure the cooler is bigger than stock, so I need another one? Am I using the wrong fluid?

 

And a drain plug.

On trucks I take off-road, I like to avoid the deep pans though..... they hang lower, and inevitably are the part that the rocks/sticks/other find, and poke holes in...... Ooops.

If you want more capacity, install a remote filter kit, and use one of the large filters. That adds almost a quart to the equation. The filter also acts as a 'cooler', as it has a LOT of surface area exposed to air.

 

Hmm I’ll check one of those out I didn’t know that was a thing

 

The even have thermostatic bypass valves for the cooler. Ah, the wonders (blunders?) of modern technology.

 

Still can’t wrap my head around how it’s overheating